Growing Organic Asparagus

Amazing Asparagus Factoids

Asparagus historically was classified a member of the lily family, along with onions and garlic. It now has its own family classification.

The native areas for growing asparagus are in Spain, Great Britain, Ireland, and Germany.

If you're concerned about your health, growing asparagus is a great low-calorie source of folate and potassium.

Peru loves growing asparagus; it lead the world in asparagus exports. The United States also loves eating asparagus; it was the leading importer as of 2004.

When to Plant

You can grow asparagus from "crowns" or seeds. Most gardeners start with crowns as seed take an additional year to harvest.

Growing asparagus from crowns takes 2 to 3 years before you'll be able to harvest; about 3 to 4 years from seed (which is why most gardeners choose crowns).

You can plant asparagus crowns a 4 to 6 weeks before your last frost. Asparagus is a hardy plant and will survive most winters. It's a good practice, though, to mulch your asparagus in the fall with straw for a little extra insurance.

In the Southern climates, you can plant asparagus in the late fall and starting around mid to late January.

While it's not necessary, you can start seeds or crowns indoors (see "Starting Asparagus Indoors" below) 12 weeks before the last frost.

Where to Plant

Asparagus loves sunlight, but can survive some shade. It should have at least 8 hours a day of sunlight.

Asparagus also likes cool weather the best. It will tend to bolt (go to seed) if it gets too warm too quickly in the spring.

The ideal growing temperature for growing asparagus is 60° to 65°F.

As asparagus doesn't mind competing with weeds and grasses (which also help keep the soil cool), planting it along a fenceline or on an edge of your garden works well.

Asparagus is not a swamp grass, so it likes well-drained soil when possible. In our area our soil is a little heavier, but has a lot of small rocks, so the soil drains well and is ideal for growing asparagus.

Planting asparagus around the edge of a garden or lining a fence is the perfect place for them in order to receive a good amount of sunlight without disturbing any other landscaping possibilities in your garden.

Preparing the Soil

Ideal pH levels for soil that asparagus is growing it is 6.5 to 7.5. Asparagus will not grow in soils with a pH of less than 6.0.

Asparagus loves nitrogen. Some good sources of organic nitrogen is composted manure, especially chicken manure (organic if available) and bone meal (add 10 to 20 lbs. per 100 square feet).

Because asparagus needs to develop a strong root system, it needs significant amounts of phosphorus. Good sources for organic phosphorus are bone meal or rock phosphates.

Asparagus also likes a good supply of potassium. Compost (with banana peels if you have them), wood ash (particularly hardwood), and granite dust are good organic sources of potassium.

If you're starting in a fresh garden area, it should be noted that a planting of asparagus can last up to 20 years, so you'll want to apply generous amounts of the above soil supplements prior to planting asparagus.

If you are able, plant in an area free of Johnson's grass (quack grass) as weed control becomes difficult once your asparagus is planted; and it may be in the same spot as long as 20 years.

Choosing the right Seed Varieties for your Area

As Asparagus rust can be a problem in some areas, check with your county extension to see if you need to plant rust-resistant varieties like Viking KB3, Jersey Giant, and Martha Washington.

Asparagus Crown Rot is another problem that you should check with your county extension on. The Jersey Giant, Viking KB3, Jersey Knight, and other "Jersey" family asparagus are all resistant to the rot.

Seeds and Germination

Asparagus seeds are good for up to three years after you've initially purchased them.

To get your asparagus seeds to germinate more quickly for planting indoors, pre-soak them in water or a compost tea (compost mixed with water). [The USDA recommends a water temperature of 85° to 90°F for 4 to 5 days].

Once you've soaked your seeds, plant them immediately in flats or individual pots. The best soil temperature for germination is about 70° to 77°F. They should come up in about 10 to 12 days at this temperature.

Asparagus seeds will germinate in 53 days at 50°F, 24 days at 59°F, and 15 days at 68°F. Germination times begin to increase above 77°F.

If you're planting seeds in your garden, the best temperature range for your soil is around 60° to 65°F.

Getting Started Indoors

Although asparagus is a cool-weather plant and it's really not necessary to plant it indoors, we like to offer you the option to do so with these simple instructions.

I covered a bit of how to start indoors in the section immediately above this on germinating your seeds. This will give you additional information.

You can soak your seeds per the USDA recommendation (if you trust your government to know best) for 4 or 5 days. Others recommend planting the seeds in potting soil after soaking just a couple hours. Either should work.

Don't use garden soil for potting soil to start your plants as it may have weed seed and/or bacteria that may become harmful to your plants at the warmer inside temperatures.

Make sure your potting soil has a pH balance of 6.5 to 7.5. If you need to bring it up quickly, add lime to the soil. Add sulphur if you need to lower it.

While you can plant asparagus seeds in flats, small peat pots are preferable as you can plant the whole pot directly in the soil. This leaves the roots undisturbed and your plant will have less shock when transplanted.

CONTAINER GARDENING ASPARAGUS

We've had questions about growing asparagus in containers. If you live in an area where you can't garden, this is an option to consider.

If you're going to grow asparagus in a container, you need to make sure you've got lots of room for asparagus' roots.

A 5-gallon bucket is about as small as you'd want to go...maybe too small of diameter. The recommended area for the roots of one containerized asparagus plant is 20" x 20" - I can't verify this to be true as we've not planted asparagus in containers and are relying on outside information on this topic.

If you do use a plastic container or bucket, drill several 1/2" holes in the bottom and a couple on the sides (opposite of each other), so the water will drain well.

On the bottom of the container, put a couple inches of small stones, then add your potting soil on top of that. The next section will tell you how to plant your seeds in pots or in your garden.

PLANTING SEEDS

Plant your asparagus seeds about 1/2" deep in a peat pot, container, or in your garden.

If you want one plant, plant two seeds. Usually you'll have at least one seed germinate. If both germinate, cut the other off at soil level to reduce your plants to one.

Pre-sprouting seeds is a useful option as well...place your seeds between damp paper towels and put them in a Zip Lock-type bag and place in an area that remains at about 70°F. The seeds will germinate at about 10 to 14 days.

After the seeds have germinated, move to a cool, light area like a windowsill, but out of direct sunlight.

If two plants come up, remove one carefully or cut it off at the dirt level.

Transplanting sEEDLINGS to Your Garden

To acclimate your asparagus plants to the outdoors, once the threat of frost is past, take your plants out-of-doors for a couple weeks during the daytime. This is called "hardening off" your plants and helps prepare them for transplanting.

Once the threat of frosts are over they will need to be gradually accustomed to conditions outside - this known as 'hardening off' and can take between 2-3 weeks.

Initially you'll want to put them in the shade most of the day, but gradually increase the amount of sunlight they're getting.

Keep the soil moist but not wet.

You may note that as you move them in and out, leaves may yellow and drop. This is normal as your plants are getting ready to put on new leaves that are more suited to the outdoors.

After a couple of weeks, transplant your seedlings to the garden. If you've used peat pots (recommended), cut the bottoms off, dig a small hole, and put the entire pot in the hole.If you've used a flat, remove the plant with the soil intact as carefully as possible so as not to disturb the roots and place carefully in the small hole you've created; backfill and press the dirt firmly around the plant.

PLANTING ASPARAGUS CROWNS IN YOUR GARDEN

If you've chosen to plant asparagus crowns, purchase one-year old crowns as they're less prone to breakage than older crowns.

A good-quality one year old crown should have 8 to 10 roots and a healthy bud cluster will give you good potential to harvest some asparagus the following year.

Plant the crowns in the early spring 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost.

To plant your asparagus crown, soak the roots in warm water for a couple of hours.

Lightly trim the roots (they can be quite tangled). Dig either a trench or a series of 12" deep holes - the plants should end up about 18" apart.

Mix compost, bone meal, manure, and other soil supplements into the dirt that will be put back into around the roots, and/or in the bottom of the hole.

Remove any dead or rotted roots from the crown; place the crown bud side up in the hole and spread the roots out. Mounding the dirt up in the trench will help when spreading out the roots.

Pack dirt around the roots, then cover the crown with 2 to 3 inches of soil. If there is still some room in the trench, add dirt over the asparagus gradually through the summer as the crowns will tend to rise.

Direct Planting (planting seeds directly into garden bed)

If you want to plant your asparagus seeds directly in the garden, add your supplements to the soil and till or spade them in.

Soak your seeds for 48 hours between wet paper towels in a Zip Lock-type bag. If you can, keep the temperature at about 85°F during the 48 hours.

Plant your seeds 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost. The seeds will germinate, albeit slowly at this time of spring.

Plant your seeds about 3 inches apart: plant 3 tight rows about 15 to 18" apart, then plant your next triple row about 4 to 5 feet away if you are going to grow a lot of asparagus.

When you put soil over your seeds, make sure it is moist and packed in around the seeds well and that the soil doesn't dry out.

If you want to harvest asparagus at variable times, you can plant the crowns at different depths; (3 inches, 4 to 6 inches, 6 to 8 inches, 8 to 10 inches).

Mulching half of your asparagus can also accomplish this; the exposed soil will warm up more quickly and the asparagus will come up faster.

Growing Your Asparagus

Once your seedlings have emerged, thin your plants to 12" to 14" apart.

Adding mulch over your asparagus will help control the weeds and keep the soil moist as well as adding nutrients to the soil.

It is a best practice not to harvest any asparagus for the first couple of years; this allows the roots to become well-established.

Asparagus will grow "ferns" during these first couple of years. These ferns are receptors for photosynthesis and are what will help give you asparagus spears next year.

Asparagus is considered to be drought-resistant because of its deep roots. However, good moisture levels in the soil will reward you with a better crop.

Throughout the year, continue adding composted vegetable and manure waste to your asparagus for better results next year.

In the fall, after the frost, cut or mow the tops of your asparagus to 2 inch stubs when the foliage has turned yellow and the before the red berries fall off the plants.

Jenny's Tip #1 - When you're growing asparagus, when the ferns are growing in the summer, spray them with a liquid organic leaf spray fertilizer. We highly recommend Organic Garden Miracle™. OGM naturally stimulates your garden plants to produce more plant sugar in the photosynthesis process. That in turn creates a more robust plant, more produce from your garden, and better and sweeter flavor from your crops. And they have a really good warranty!

Weeding and Mulching

We've discussed using mulch for delaying harvest, retaining soil moisture, and weed control. How much and what types can be used?

We prefer barley straw as we have a ready and inexpensive supply in our area. You can also use grass clippings or chopped up leaves. Hay isn't a good option as it's full of weed seed.

I recommend 3 to 4 inches of straw mulch, and 2 to 3 inches of grass clippings applied 2 or 3 times during the growing season. This will vary by the length of your growing season.

If you want to speed up harvest on half of your asparagus, as mentioned above, remove the mulch in order to warm up the soil.

Don't till around your asparagus to control weeds. If you use a hoe, stay back from the plants at least 6 inches and hoe just the surface. Hand-pull any weeds that are closer to the plants.

Asparagus is salt-tolerant, however, the practice using salt to control weeds is not recommended.

Watering

Asparagus does best with drip irrigation, but if this isn't an option, water heavily in the morning when your soil appears dry; the plants have time to dry out completely by afternoon.

Watering in the morning will help your asparagus not to develop fungus-related diseases.

You should water 1 to 2 inches at least once a week during the summer heat; mulching, as mentioned before, also helps keep the soil cool and retains moisture. Don't overwater or underwater asparagus.

Stop watering asparagus in October and November to make the plants turn yellow and go dormant.

By the time asparagus is 4 years old, it has developed a root system that can go as deep as 48". You can irrigate every 2 or 3 weeks, but water heavily enough to get down to those roots.

Companion Planting and Rotation Considerations

Plants that play well with asparagus:

Marigolds, parsley and basil help control asparagus beetles (more on that in the "Pests" section below). Parsley is also said to invigorate asparagus.

Dill aids in controlling spider mites and aphids.

Coriander is also helpful in repelling aphids, spider mites, and potato beetles.

Comfrey helps to build calcium, phosphorus, and potassium in the soil. It also helps control slugs, and is said to be a good compost activator.

Tomatoes are probably one of the best companions for asparagus. The tomato plant repels the asparagus beetle, and asparagus repels harmful root nematodes that affect tomatoes.

Plants that don't play well with asparagus:

Onions, garlic, and potatoes attract the wrong sorts of insects and predators to hang out in your asparagus patch.

You don't really need to worry about rotating your asparagus crop except every 20 years or so. Pay close attention to the ground before you plant it though.

When to Harvest

When asparagus stalks reach anywhere from 6 to 9 inches, cut them at or slightly below the soil level; definitely harvest them before they flower.

You can also snap the spears off to harvest them; bend them with a quick motion by grasping near the base of the spear.

Don't harvest anything the first year, lightly the second year, then go for it on the third year. Add a year to the previous if you're planting from seed.

Asparagus harvest lasts about 8 weeks; harvest daily. If you don't, the spears will become tough and inedible.

Pick your asparagus patch clean so those nasty little asparagus beetles don't have any place to lay their nasty little eggs.

At the end of harvesting, large ferns will develop from any remaining spears...these will strengthen the plants for next years harvest.

Storage

It's best to cool your asparagus as rapidly as possible once you've harvest it (harvesting in the morning is also desirable if possible).

An ice-water bath is an effective way to cool asparagus rapidly. Fill your sink with water and ice; when you've picked your asparagus, place it in the ice-cold water to rapidly cool it.

After cooling your asparagus, refrigerate it; it will keep for 2 to 3 weeks at 35° to 40°F. It goes bad quickly over 40°F.

Asparagus can be blanched and frozen, canned, and pickled. Jenny pickles asparagus and it's a family favorite during the holiday season.

Preventative and Natural Solutions to Common Pests and Problems

Pests: the worst insects for asparagus are the asparagus beetle, the spotted asparagus beetle, and the asparagus aphid.

Asparagus beetles are common wherever asparagus is grown; adults and larvae both feed on the spears in the spring and damage the crop, then defoliate the ferns in the summer which affects the crop the following year.

Defoliation by asparagus beetles can also make asparagus susceptible to fungal diseases like fusarium.

They show up about the time the asparagus does in the spring and cause asparagus to turn brown, scar, or bend over.

Asparagus beetles are about a quarter of an inch long, oval, with antennae. They're kind of bluish-black and has 6 beige-colored spots on its back.

Adult spotted asparagus beetles are more common in the Eastern U.S., but are pretty much the same as far as what they do to your asparagus, but the larvae doesn't do much damage to the spears as it feeds on the berries later in the year.

They're about the same size as the asparagus beetle, but they're reddish-orange with a dozen black spots on their backs. They look a bit like ladybugs, but ladybugs have variable quantities of spots.

So, how do you control these little pests? If you're able to, you can let your hens forage on the beetles. Organic pyrethrins are also effective against the asparagus beetles.

If you have a small patch, you can patrol your patch daily and pick the little buggers and their eggs by hand and drop them in a pail of soapy water.

You could also introduce natural predators such as the chalcid wasp or ladybug larvae.

The asparagus aphid comes from Europe; it first showed up in the U.S. in 1969, and is pretty much all over North America now.

The asparagus aphic causes "witches broom;" a stunted, bushy growth. However, they're not difficult to control with pyrethrins or insecticidal soap sprays.

Environmental Factors

The most common diseases found in asparagus are purple spot, asparagus rust, and asparagus crown rot.

Asparagus rust causes rusty orange to yellowish spots on asparagus stems after the harvest.

Asparagus rust is caused by disease with a long Latin name. The upshot is that at first there's some light green lesions early in the season. These are followed by tan-colored blisters, and finally black blisters that protrude later in the season, usually after harvest.

Severe rust infections can kill or stunt asparagus shoots, reducing the asparagus' plants ability to gather strength for the next season's crop.

If you rub your hand across the asparagus stalk, and it turns orange, your plants have rust.

The best way to control rust is to plant varieties that are resistant before you have problems: Viking KB3, Martha Washington, and Jersey Giant are a few varieties that are rust-resistant.

Asparagus crown rot is caused by a fungus with another long Latin name, but the short version is Fusarium and it causes blight in the asparagus crown.

You'll suspect your plants are infected with Fusarium if your asparagus wilts in the summer heat, turns yellow before fall, or just dies.

If the crowns turn brown, and on further investigation you find the roots are also decaying, your plants have been infected.

The best way to control this disease is to choose varieties that are resistant to it; a couple of names are Jersey Giant and Viking KB3.

Lastly, purple spot disease on asparagus plants is caused by yet another long Latin name. It seems to me if they'd stop using these long Latin names we wouldn't be having these problems with these diseases (that's a joke...hahaha).

Purple spot disease shows up as, you guessed it - purple spots! Usually on harvested spears. It lives through the winter, but appears as black spots on the dead ferns.

Purple spot disease tends to multiply during wet years.

How to get rid of purple spot disease; remove, burn, bury, or destroy crop debris in the fall.

Growing Organic Beets

INTERESTING BEET FACTOIDS

Growing beets as food is traceable to the Mediterranean as far back as 2000 B.C.

In the 1800's, agricultural scientists in Germany developed the sugar beet. Growing white-colored sugar beets has become a primary source of white sugar (sucrose), along with sugar cane.

The primary beets grown in gardens for eating are known as "garden" beats. Eastern Europeans are especially fond of growing beets for "borsch, " a beet-based soup. Garden beets are close relatives to Spinach and Chard.

WHEN TO PLANT

Garden beets are "cold-hardy" plants. Seeds can be planted directly into the garden as early as 4 weeks before your last frost date. Beet varieties generally take 50-55 days to mature.

For a spring crop, plant beets as soon as the soil dries out and you can work it, typically from March to mid-May, depending on your climate. If your springs are wet and cold, it is critical you do not plant if your soil is still holding water. The seeds will not germinate in water-logged soil.

For continuous harvest, make successive planting every two week into early summer or up to soil temperatures of 65°F. Beets grow best in soil temperatures of 60° to 65°F. For a fall harvest, begin planting again 8 weeks before your first expected frost date.

Planting beets consecutively rather than one big crop will provide smaller, more tender beets throughout the season.

Winter crops: If you live in a mild winter area, beets can be planted in the fall with consecutive plantings throughout winter and into spring.

Where to Plant

Planting seeds in full sun will help your beet plants to establish better roots. If you prefer beet greens, planting in partial shade will produce a higher yield of leafy greens. Beets prefer sandy soils rich in organic matter and retains moisture yet drains well enough to prevent standing water.

Preparing the Soil

Like any root crop, you’ll get the best results planting in soil that is root and rock free. Loose soil is critical for proper development of the roots. If all you have is rocky soil, sift the planting area a minimum of 6 “down.

Deeply till the soil, and then smooth the surface in order to prepare a good seed-bed. If your soil is heavy clay, hard, or alkaline, mix in an inch or so of compost.

The optimum pH range is between 6 and 6.5. Beets do not grow well in high acidic soils (a pH lower than 6).

Boron is required for all plant growth and beets use boron inefficiently. Corky black areas in the roots indicate boron deficiency. Boron is less available to the plant in soils with high pH and high organic matter.

Before planting, incorporate up to 2-4 inches of well composted organic matter and work it into the top 6 inches of soil. Use only well-composted manure. Manure that is too fresh can cause forked roots.

Sprinkle and till in a bit of wood ash (out of your woodstove or fire pit), if handy. Its rich supply of potassium enhances root growth.

Seeds and Germination

Before planting, soak seeds for 12 hours to stimulate germination. This is especially important in late summer when the weather is hot and precipitation is sparse.

Seeds will germinate in temperatures as low as 41°F (42 days). A soil temperature of 60°F will take approximately 10 days to germinate.

Your seeds should last about 4 years from your initial purchase date.

Getting Started Indoors

Although beets have been started indoors, we do not recommend it for a couple reasons. First, being a cool weather crop, beet seeds can be planted very early in the season and planted over a period of time. An indoor start is not necessary to receive a good harvest. Second, beets are a root crop and root crops do best when their roots are left undisturbed.

planting seeds directly into YOUr garden

Plant your beet seeds to a depth of one half inch, spacing one inch apart. For row planting, plant seeds 3 “ apart, ½ inch deep in rows 12-18” apart. To utilize space, beets can be planted in 2 or more rows or in a wide bed with 3-4” between rows.

Press the soil down firmly (using the back of a hoe works) to pack the seed in fairly tight. The sandier the soil, the tighter the pack is needed.

Because each beet ‘seed’ is actually a fruit which contains 2-6 true seeds; you will see a cluster of seedlings develop for every seed you plant. When seedlings are around 1” tall, thin clusters to one seedling every 3”. The small, tender leaves can be used in salads.

Young seedlings can be transplanted with care which will provide a second later crop since transplanting will set the plant back about two weeks.

Be careful not to pull up the seedlings next to the one you have chosen to keep. This could potentially disturb the root system or even pull it right out of the ground. Cut off the beet seedlings growing right next to your desired plant at soil level.

One idea to aid germination (especially in heavier soils) is to cover the seeds in the garden with dampened vermiculite, peat moss or some other non-crusting material. This will keep the seed moist and warm, but not inhibit it from breaking through the surface.

Growing Your beets

Temperatures of 60° to 65°F and bright sunny days are ideal for beet plant growth and development.

Once the seedlings are 4-6” tall, thin plants to 4-6” apart. Enough space is needed for the roots to develop properly. When the root has reached 1” in diameter, do a final thinning by harvesting every other plant.

Competition with weeds and uneven watering can make beets stringy and tough. Too much nitrogen will encourage top growth at the expense of root development.

When beets mature in warm weather, they are lighter colored, have less sugar and have more pronounced color zoning in the roots. Best color and flavor develop under cool conditions and bright sun.

Fluctuating weather conditions produce white zone rings in roots. Beets are biennials. Normally, they produce an enlarged root during their first season.

Then after overwintering they produce a flower stalk.

If they experience two to three weeks of temperatures below 45°F after they have formed several true leaves during their first season, a flower stalk may grow prematurely.

Mulching

Use about 1” of mulch to help maintain even moisture, suppress weeds, and protect from hot spells. Water your plants well before applying mulch. Spread a layer of straw, grass clippings, or shredded leaves around the base of your beet plants.

Mint is also an effective mulch around beets and helps to deter pests.

Weeding

Weed control is vital in establishment of beets, especially in the early stages. Hand weed, being careful not to disturb or damage beet roots. The root crops grow slowly for the first few weeks after planting and cannot successfully compete with weeds. Frequent, shallow cultivation will control the weeds and keep the surface of the soil loose.

The roots of the root crops are very close to the surface of the soil, so it is important not to cultivate too deeply. Cultivate just deeply enough to cut the weeds off below the surface. Deep cultivation after the weeds are large damages the beet roots.

Watering

Consistent watering keeps beets tender and growth continual. If heavy rain is predicted before plants emerge, place a cover over them. This will prevent soil from crusting which can prevent proper growth and slow the harvest.

Supply your plants 1” of water a week. Not enough water will cause the roots to become tough and crack and the plants will bolt to seed.

Companion Planting and Rotation Considerations

Planting beets where beans grew the previous year will benefit the plants. All beans enrich the soil with nitrogen-fixed form the air, improving the conditions for whatever crop you plant after the beans are finished.

Beets do not grow well near walnut trees; garlic improves growth and flavor of beet plants; rather than planting invasive mints around beets use your mint clippings as mulch.

Radishes are a deterrent against cucumber beetles and rust flies, and leaf miners; sage deters unwanted pests and benefits each other in garden; runner or pole beans and beets stunt each other's growth; beets are closely related to Swiss chard and spinach. Avoid following these crops in rotation.

Beets are relatively disease and pest free, and even the problems they do have are relatively easy to manage organically.

When to Harvest

Beets can be harvested at any stage of development, from the thinning to the fully mature stage at about 2 inches in diameter. As the roots get larger they tend to get more fibrous.

Beets must be harvested before the ground freezes in the fall. Hand pull by pushing the root to the side and pulling it out of the ground. Remove as much dirt as possible. Do not wash unless using immediately. Cut or twist off the tops of the beets 1” above the root to prevent staining (or bleeding) during cooking. If you are removing the entire crop at one time, it may be helpful to use a spading fork to loosen the soil next to the plants before pulling them. Harvest your thinnings by cooking up the small beets and using the greens in salads.

For a fall harvest, pull up your beet crop after a hard frost. Beets harvested in fall have stronger colors than spring-planted beets and usually have higher sugar levels.

Be sure to and store the beets in a box of sand in a cool place like a basement or a root cellar until you are ready to eat them.

Beet Storage

Beets can be stored in a Ziploc bag in your refrigerator for several weeks. Beets also store well in a root cellar or cool, dark area packed in peat, sand or sawdust with moderate to high humidity for 2-4 months. Cut tops ½ “from the root when storing.

Harvested beets also may be stored in a pit in the ground covered with enough straw to keep from freezing. Ideal storage temperature for beets is 32°F with 95 percent humidity. Do not allow the roots to freeze.

Beets can be frozen, canned or pickled and dried beets yield fairly good results.

Freezing magnifies imperfections and woodiness in over mature beets. For freezing, select deep, uniformly-red, tender, young beets.

Canning Beets with a diameter of 1 to 2 inches are preferred for whole packs. Avoid canning beets more than 3 inches in diameter as they are often tough and fibrous.

Preventative and Natural Solutions to Common Pests and Problems

Pests

Flea Beetles: these small beetles chew small, round holes in cotyledons (first leaves on a plant) and the adult leaves. Flea Beetles can spread disease and ruin your beet crop, particularly when your beets are seedlings.

Prevention: The best organic prevention is floating row covers. Place row covers over your newly planted beet crop so the beetles aren't able to find them. Make sure the covers are sealed 100%, or these small beetles will find a way in to your plants. If you remove the covers to weed around your beets, replace it as soon as you are able.

Prevention: 1) Rotating your crops with crops that aren't susceptible to flea beetles is also advisable. 2) Make sure your soils nutrients are properly balanced and that your beet plants are getting plenty of water. Flea beetles are particularly devastating to weak plants.

Treatment - "Diatomaceous Earth" (Food Grade): Dusting your plants with DE will help rid your garden of flea beetles, or at least bring them under control.

Rodents - such as rabbits: Rodents will dine on your beet roots if you let them and they're a problem in your area.

Prevention: Bend a piece of poultry netting in a U-shape over your beets and secure the edges to the ground; these pests will go look for easier food.

Maggots: Another pest that may feed on your beet roots is maggots.

Prevention: Harvesting your beets as soon as they're ready will reduce the risk of maggots dining on your beets before you do.

Leaf Miners: Small white maggots that burrow and feed on beet leaves; you can tell where they've been as they leave a lacy trail. While leaf miners don't affect the yield much, they make the leaves unusable.

Prevention: The best organic prevention is floating row covers. Make sure the covers are sealed by placing dirt around the edges to hold the cover down. This will keep adult flies from laying eggs on your beet leaves.

Problem - Forked Roots: If your soil is too rocky, this is a major cause of forked roots. Another cause can be starting beets indoors then transplanting them in your garden, which is another reason we'd recommend against transplanting.

Problem - small roots and lots of plant leaves: Beets planted too close together with no subsequent thinning. Too much nitrogen can also create this condition.

Disease - Leaf Spots: circular spots on leaves created by fungus. This occurs mainly if the leaves remain wet for long periods of time, particularly in fall crops.

Prevention: Use drip irrigation or water early in the day so the plants will dry off by late morning. Also, don't leave beet plants too close together or they'll lack air circulation. In the fall, make sure to dispose of affected leaves and beets.

Problem - "Root Rots:" Fungal disease that decays your beet's roots.

Prevention: Rotate your crops and make sure your soil drains well.

Problem - "Yellows:" leafhoppers carry this disease which is characterized by - you guessed it - your plant leaves turning yellow.

Prevention: Use row covers.

Problem: "Black Heart:" When a beet root has hard, black spots in the flesh, it's known as black heart. Basically it's a boron deficiency. Beets require more boron than most plants, 8.6 oz. per acre.

Prevention: Adding compost to your soil may help. You might also try Organic Garden Miracle™, a liquid organic leaf spray fertilizer with traces of boron in it. Its primary function is to increase a plant's ability to absorb nutrients from the air and soil to increase a plant's sugar. It appears to improve not just plant size and health; we've also noticed an improvement in the flavor of any vegetable we've used it on.

Growing Organic Corn

INTERESTING CORN FACTS

Throughout much of the world, corn is known as Maize (sounds like mays). The Aztecs and Mayans (S. America) were growing corn well before it made its way to Europe in the 15th century.

In N. America, commercial farmers favor growing corn over any other crop by around double.

One of the oldest forms of corn is popcorn. Popcorn was found in New Mexico and has been dated to around 3600 B.C.

Sweet corn is eaten as a vegetable most often (think “corn-on-the-cob), while Field Corn is typically what is grown commercially for animal feed and ethanol.

WHEN TO PLANT

You can start planting and growing sweet corn about a week after the last frost or when the soil temperature is about 60°F.

In colder areas, you can warm the soil by placing plastic over your planting area at least a week before planting. Use dirt around the edges to keep plastic in place.

Most varieties of corn will not germinate if soil temperature is below 50°F. If planted too early, you may end up with spindly, deformed stalks or risk your seedlings being killed if a frost occurs.

Here in the North, we wait until the end of May and when the weather is on a warming trend; at least 70°F air temperature in the day and no lower than 50°F at night).

In the South, corn can be planted as early as February or March if weather conditions are right.

If the ground is still really wet, wait to plant. Corn seed sown in cold, moist soil is susceptible to fungal disease.

Pre-sprouting seeds is recommended in Northern climates as it increases germination as much as 50% in our experience. If you live in an area with a short growing season, you might also want to consider growing an early-maturing, short-season hybrid. Hybrids are not recommended though if you are planning to save seeds.

Cross-pollination of different varieties can cause tough, starchy kernels. Because of this, we recommend planting only one variety.

What if you want a longer corn harvest? Rather than planting early, mid-season, and late varieties and risking starchy kernels, we recommend planting your favorite variety every 2 weeks or when three to four leaves have appeared on the seedlings in the previous planting. You can continue re-planting up to 6 weeks.

WHERE TO PLANT

Plant your corn in full sun with some protection from the wind if possible. Plant corn at the North side of the garden then the tall corn plants won’t shade out the rest of your garden.

Alternately, if you have plants that need partial shade during the hotter parts of the summer, position your corn to protect those crops from too much sun.

Corn is a heavy nitrogen feeder, so it will thrive in an area where nitrogen-fixing plants such as beans, peas, clover, or alfalfa grew the previous season.

PREPARING YOUR SOIL

Soil nutrient levels must be optimum for plant and kernel development, disease resistance, flavor, and nutrition.

Sweet corn thrives best in deep, naturally rich, and easily worked soil with plenty of organic matter. However, any well-drained soil is suitable. Sandy soils are best for early crops since sandy soils warm up faster in the spring than heavy soils.

Preparation for next year’s corn planting begins in the fall by firstplanting a cover crop of legumes or alfalfa for nitrogen-fixing; spade or rototill in your cover crop in the spring.

Compared to other crops, corn is a moderate to heavy consumer of most nutrients, especially nitrogen.

Loosen the soil about 6 inches deep, using a spade or garden fork. Break up the clods to insure good contact between the soil and the seed. Add generous amounts of composted manure, compost and if necessary, lime; 1# of lime per 100 sq.ft. should be sufficient.

Generally, compost and/or chicken and cow manures (well-composted, not fresh) have their strongest effect on the corn crop if applied just in advance of planting; use 20 to 30 lbs. per 100 sq.ft. Increase phosphorus levels with bone meal or blood meal; these should be added during planting for direct contact with the corn’s roots.

Optimal pH levels for growing corn are 6.0 to 6.5.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SEED VARIETIES

Standard sweet corn varieties offer traditional flavor and grow better in lower soil temperatures than the varieties below, but their sugar turns to starch quickly after harvest.

Sugar-enhanced varieties are sweeter and tenderer than standard varieties, and super-sweets are the sweetest of all but are less vigorous than other hybrids and need moist, warm soil to grow well.

If you live in an area with a short growing season, you might want to consider growing an early-maturing, short season hybrid. Hybrids are not recommended though if you are planning to save seeds.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Sweet corn requires warm soil for germination; minimum of 55°F for standard sweet corn varieties and about 65°F for super sweet varieties. The best germination temperatures, however, are between 75° – 85°F; at these temperatures, corn seeds germinate in 3 to 4 days.

It’s best to wait until your soil temperature has reached a steady 60°F or above (70°F for super-sweet corn) before planting to get the best germination results. For more rapid germination, warm the soil by covering the planting area with plastic 10-14 days sowing

Pre-sprouting Seeds: In cooler climates (like where we live), it is best to pre-sprout your corn seeds in a warm place (we do it in the kitchen).

Determine how many seeds you’ll need for the area you want to plant, soak the seeds in water, then place them in a jar or cup, then cover the seeds with a water-soaked rag or washcloth; rinse once or twice daily until the seeds have sprouted. At 70°F in our home, the seeds sprout in about 3 to 4 days.

Once most of the seeds are sprouted, plant them in your garden immediately or the sprouts will get too long and break off easily.

Once you’ve purchased corn seeds, they should be good for 2 years.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (and transplanting)

Growing corn indoors is not a best practice as corn doesn’t transplant well, plus it grows very quickly in your garden; we consider it wasted effort.

However, if you believe you must plant indoors, plant in individual 4″ peat pots. When transplanting, make sure not to disturb the roots or the plant will die. Dig a hole, place the entire peat pot in the hole and back-fill the dirt to the collar of the corn plant (at the same level as it is in the peat pot).

PLANTING CORN SEED DIRECTLY IN YOUR GARDEN

Planting Basics: seed depth: approx. 2″ (3″ in sandy soil) – seed spacing: 3″ to 4″ (we like to over-plant and thin our corn to 8″ to 12″ apart) – row width: 30″to 36″ (I like to plant rows 36″ apart so I can get my Troybilt Horse Tiller “Attiller the Hun” between the rows).

It’s important not to crowd your plants as the corn ears will be smaller (or not form at all). Corn is wind-pollinated, so plant four or more short rows of sweet corn side-by-side rather than one or two long rows. This will help insure good pollination and ear development. Inadequate pollination results in poorly-filled ears.

Cross-pollination of different varieties can cause tough, starchy kernels.

To prevent corn from cross-pollinating, corn varieties must be planted at least 250 feet from white varieties and 500 feet or more from other colored varieties.

Note: most of us don’t have that much space or we have neighbors close by growing corn, so it can be difficult to isolate different corn varieties by distance. If you’re on good terms with your gardening neighbors, you might see if you can match varieties.

So, what do you do if you want a longer corn harvest? Rather than planting early, mid-season, and late varieties and risking starchy kernels, we recommend you plant your favorite variety every 2 weeks (or when three to four leaves have appeared on the seedlings in the previous planting. You can continue re-planting up to 6 weeks.

We’ve been asked how much corn to plant per person in your household – we estimate about 15 plants per person for fresh sweet corn. If you want to can and/or freeze corn, add another 30 or more plants per person.

Jenny’s Tip #1: This past year we discovered a liquid organic leaf spray fertilizer (you spray your plants every two weeks) called Organic Garden Miracle™ that naturally stimulates your garden plants to create more plant sugar. Plant sugar is what makes your plants strong, produce flowers and fruit, and controls the flavor, sweetness, quantity, and size of fruits your plant produces. And it has a risk-free guarantee that made us very comfortable trying it.

GROWING CORN

When the corn seedlings are 3-6” inches tall, thin to one plant per 8 to 12 inches, by cutting the unwanted seedlings at soil level or pulling them up if they’re not too close together.

Hand-pollinating: If you want to help your plants form full ears of corn, hand-pollinating is one way to do it; this ensures that each ear fills out completely. To pollinate, grab the tassels and shake them to distribute the pollen to the silks below.

Another method is to gently shake the tassels into a small paper bag, collecting the pollen, then sprinkle the pollen onto the emerging silks, repeating once or twice over the next few days. This method takes a little more time but works very well.

Some sweet corn varieties produce more side shoots or “suckers” than others. Removing these side shoots is time consuming and does not improve yields.

Side-dress the stalks with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (such as well-composted animal manure) when plants have 8-10 leaves, then again when tassels appear.

Mulching: hill soil mixed with compost around the base of the plant when they are 6” high. This will help to anchor the plants and keep the roots covered and cool.

Weeding: If you use a roto tiller like I do, keep at least 6″ from your plant’s base. Hand-pull any weeds that are closer, and if they’re too big and too close to the base of your plants, especially if they’re small, cut them off rather than pulling them

WATERING

Although corn is a warm-weather crop, a lack of water at critical periods can seriously affect development of the ears and reduce yield. If rainfall is sparse, be sure to water your crop thoroughly (1 to 1.5 inches per week) when the tassels emerge, and when the ears and silk appears.

Push your finger into the soil to check for moisture. If you feel the soil dry more than 1” down, the plants need watered. Sandy soils may require more frequent watering. The roots of the Corn plant are located close to the stalks. It is also a very shallow root system, therefore when watering; place the water source near the base of each stalk to be sure the roots are able to absorb the water.

If you grow squash amidst the corn hills, its leaves will act as a living mulch, but it will also compete with the corn for moisture, so soak the soil well when you water and check moisture levels more frequently. Drip irrigation applies even moisture to the soil; overhead watering can wash pollen off corn plants.

A sign of over-watering is when leaves turn pale green or yellow and then fall off, the plants grow poorly, and spindly stems begin to flop over. Stop watering until the plants return to normal health.

COMPANION PLANTING / ROTATION

Plant corn with pole beans or vine crops, such as cucumbers, squash, and pumpkins. Pole beans and vine crops planted on the sunny side of a row of corn will grow up the stalks, and provide stability for both plants.

Pigweed thistle raises nutrients from the subsoil to where the corn can reach them.

Bad Companions: Keep corn at least 20 feet from tomato plants; tomatoes and corn are attacked by the same worm.

Rotation Considerations: Corn is a heavy feeder; legumes (beans, peas) fix nitrogen from air into the soil when they begin to die back. However, they do not feed the corn while it is growing.

Legumes must be planted as a cover crop the previous season in the same location to benefit this year’s corn.

HARVESTING CORN

Check your stalks when the silks are brown and damp by poking a fingernail into a kernel – it’s ready when the liquid that squirts out is milky. This stage occurs about 18 to 24 days after the appearance of the first silk strands. Sweet corn remains in the milk stage less than a week.

Signs that indicate the corn is ready for harvest are: drying and browning of the silks, fullness of the tip kernels, and firmness of the un-husked ears.

To harvest your corn, snap off the ears by hand with a quick but firm downward push, twist and pull. Hold the stalk with the other hand just above where the ear attaches to the stalk to prevent it from breaking.

In warmer temperatures, the sugar in sweet corn quickly decreases and the starch increases, making the flavor bland; the ears should be eaten, processed or refrigerated as soon as possible.

Cut or pull out the cornstalks immediately after harvest and put them in a compost pile.

Cut the stalks in one foot lengths or shred them to help speed up the composting process. A pile of cornstalks left alone over winter will only be a pile of woody stalks in the spring.

STORAGE

For preservation of flavor and sugar content corn must be brought to 40°F within 1 hour from harvest or the sugars quickly begin to turn to starch. The quickest way to accomplish this is to give the corn an ice bath.

Corn only preserves well for about 1 week in the refrigerator; after picking, use the sweet corn immediately for fresh eating, canning, freezing, or dehydrating. In my opinion, freezing sweet corn is the best way to preserve the taste of corn.

PREVENTATIVE AND NATURAL SOLUTIONS TO COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

PESTS: The most widespread pests are European corn borers and corn earworms.

Corn Borers: Corn borers are fleshed-colored worms, about 1” in length with tiny black spots. Once inside the plant, they are difficult to control.

European corn borers attack the stalk just below the tassels. Look for small holes with sawdust-like material near the opening. Squeeze the stalk to destroy the borer.

Prevention – Timing: by planting a week or two after the soil warms you can avoid the time the borers emerge in the spring.

Prevention – Other: preventative care such as the use of row covers or milder natural sprays in early stages, such as neem or pyrethrins to avoid having severe infestations.

Treatment – Handpicking: for small gardens hand-picking the larvae off the corn silk may work.

Treatment – Organic: Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) is an effective option for organic control of a medium infestation; granular Bt seems to work best.

Bt can also be used by mixing with vegetable oil and then applying it on the corn silk 2-3 days after the silk has matured. This is effective, but Bt is only effective for between 3 and 7 days, then it must be reapplied.

Treatment – Non-organic: Rotenone can be used as a very last resort in severe infestations but it is not recommended for organic gardening due to it’s natural toxicity and harm to beneficial insects.

Corn Earworms: Corn earworms attack the tips of the ears when the plants begin to tassel. If the damage is minor, you can cut off the tips of the ears after harvesting.

Corn earworm larvae vary greatly in color ranging in from light green or pink to dark brown or nearly black. They have alternating light and dark stripes running the length of the body. Double dark stripes can usually be seen down the center of the back and the underside of the larva is typically light-colored.

Prevention – Corn Variety: The best way to prevent corn earworm infestations is to choose a corn variety that is resistant to this pest due to its tight husk.

Another preventative method is to spray a small amount of a 20-to-1 mix of Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) and mineral oil to the silk at the ear tip just as the silk begins to wilt.

Animal Pests: If your corn patch is small and critters (such as raccoons or birds) are invading your ears, try wrapping duct tape around each ear an inch above the stalk and an inch below the tip to prevent access inside.

If your crop is larger, using an electric fence of two or three wires spaced 4” apart and starting 4” off the ground will help detour these pests. Be sure to have the fence set up before the corn is ripe; raccoons prefer corn in the early stages of ripeness.

If you have a dog, kenneling the dog near the corn can also help to keep animal pests away.

ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS

Dry spells can cause leaf damage. During dry periods, mist the leaves a couple times a week with a sprinkler set on the mist setting. If the ends of the leaves have dried up, cut them off with some clean scissors just at the end of the dry area without cutting into the healthy part.

Disease – Corn Smut: is a fungus which can infect the plant through wounds caused by cultivation, hail, or insects. It can also infect newly developed silks. It is an abnormal greenish-white outgrowth, filled with black spores. Although considered a delicacy in authentic Mexican and some Chinese cooking, Americans generally do not find it appetizing.

No hybrid seed is completely immune to smut, but most of the resistant varieties will prevent this disease in your corn crop. Many of the commonly used sweet corn varieties are susceptible to Corn Smut disease. However, the White Sugary Enhancer varieties are more resistant to smut than either the White or Bi-color Super-sweet varieties.

Years with warm and dry early summers, followed by rainy weather have a greater risk of smut disease developing in corn crops.

Prevention: Do not over-apply nitrogen-heavy compost. Soils too high in nitrogen have been shown to increase the risk of disease.

Treatment: To control the fungus, remove any galls before the dark spores form inside. Burn or bag and throw away the diseased plant parts to prevent spreading the disease.

Growing Organic Potatoes

POTATO DEFINITIONS

Seed Potatoes - approx. 2" x 2" potato chunks with at least 1 or 2 "eyes."

Potato Seeds - growing potatoes from actual seed which is more difficult; most gardeners simply plant seed potatoes.

Spuds - nickname for potatoes - derived from the Latin "spad" which means sword. Our word "spade" comes from this word which is a "sword which is stuck into the ground" to open the hole for the potato. Sometime in the 19th century "spud" - an Irish digging implement used to plant potatoes - and "potato" became synonymous. Don't ask me...I'm only part Irish!

WHEN TO PLANT

In Northern areas, you can begin planting and growing seed potatoes directly in the garden 14-21 days before the last frost date.

Potatoes can withstand a light frost, and even if the plants wilt and turn black with a heavier frost, the plants will come back (this happened to us last year).

You can begin growing most varieties of potatoes in late March or April; if you plant too early in the spring you run the risk of your seed potatoes rotting before they grow.

Last year I made the mistake of planting our potatoes too early, and it really stunted their growth. Our Ukrainian neighbors planted around mid-April, and their potatoes came up before ours did! And they had a much better harvest.

Late season potatoes may be planted as late as July in Northern climates. These late season varieties store better as well.

You can grow both red-skinned and white-skinned potatoes as early and late crops.

In Southern areas, you can begin planting and growing in February or March. Temperatures usually stay above freezing in many areas of the "deep south" (Southern parts of GA, AL, MS, LA, TX, and the entire state of Florida). In these areas you can often plant potatoes by mid-January, and another crop in mid-to-late September.

Depending on your growing climate, potatoes reach maturity around 3 to 4 months.

WHERE TO PLANT

Potatoes should be planted in an area that receives at least six hours of full sunlight daily.

If you're converting lawn to garden area, it is best to avoid planting potatoes in the new garden area for at least the first year as they may be assaulted by grubworms.

Potatoes prefer well-drained soil with moderate quantities of organic matter and sand.

Don't add large amounts of manure to your soil as it causes scabs on your potatoes - this happened to us a few years back.

PREPARING YOUR SOIL

Potatoes grow best if the pH level of your soil is around 4.8 to 5.5; they'll usually do OK even up to 6.5, although they may have more scabbing.

If your soil has a pH above 6.0, you can purchase potato varieties that are scab-resistant.

Potatoes require a decent amount of potassium and phosphate which is typical of root crops.

Trenching:

1) Dig a trench about 12" deep and 18" wide.

2) Mix 2 - 3 inches of compost in with about half of the dirt; Note: The University of Maine concluded, after a multi-year study, that adding 10 tons of compost per acre over the period of the study did increase the crop yield.

3) Mix another 2 - 3 inches of compost in with the dirt on the side of the trench; if you need to add potassium to your soil, mix a good organic source such as bone meal, which strengthens the roots.

4) The center of the trench will become your row - space rows about 30 to 36 inches apart.

5) Add an organic nitrogen fertilizer into the soil on the side of the trench if needed.

6) Remove any larger rocks as they'll deform your potatoes.

Now you're ready to plant!

SEED VARIETIES

To start your potato patch, decide how many pounds of potatoes you would like to harvest.

Five pounds of seed potatoes will yield between 45 and 70 lbs. of potatoes and will require a garden area of about 10 x 12 feet.

Plant at least two varieties (I like a red variety and Yukon Golds, a white variety) .

Think about planting both an early maturing (reds) and a medium or late maturing variety (white).

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Potatoes germinate at a low soil temperature of 45°, but germinate best at a temperature of about 55° to 65°F.

Growing potatoes at a soil temperature of 45° will work OK, but grow best in the temperature range of 55° to 80°F.

Potatoes stop forming if the soil temperature reaches 80°F; to prevent soil from getting too warm, layer 3 to 4 inches of straw or other organic mulch around your potatoes to keep the soil cool and the weeds under control.

It takes about 2 to 4 weeks to see potato seedlings emerge from your soil, depending on the soil temperature.

Potatoes require significant light and moisture to germinate well.

Jenny's Tip #1: If you're planting early potatoes, you can sprout your potatoes before planting. This could bring your potato harvest two or three weeks earlier. To sprout your potatoes, lay your seed potatoes in a tray in sunlight or a greenhouse until the sprouts are no longer than an inch. Carefully plant the sprouted potatoes being careful not to break the sprouts off.

DIRECT PLANTING IN YOUR GARDEN

When you're growing potatoes, decide how many pounds you'll want to harvest; our family of six eats about 300lbs. per year.

You'll typically get between 8 and 14 pounds of potatoes per pound you plant; it'll take about 8 to 10 lbs of seed potatoes per every 100 feet of potatoes you plant. Again, using our family as an example, we'd plant about 35 to 40 lbs. of potatoes at the most, although last year our yield was about 12 lbs. to every pound of potatoes planted, so we might want to plant maybe 30 lbs., or about three 80 foot rows.

Note: Planting potatoes from the grocery store is not recommended; they are treated to keep from sprouting and you don't know what diseases they might bring into your area.

Prior to planting your seed potatoes, cut them into pieces with one or two eyes (preferably two) and let them cure in a warm, dry place for at least 12 hours (24 is even better, but if you're like me, you want to get those little spuds in the ground!).

After your potatoes are cured, place them in the trench outlined in the "Preparing Your Soil" area above; at least one "eye" should be pointing up.

If you've prepared your trench well, you should have loose, well-drained soil to plant your potatoes in; place one of your cut seed potatoes every 10 to 12 inches.

Take the remaining soil that's piled on the side of the trench and cover the tops of your potatoes with 3 to 4 inches of soil.

Make sure the soil is very moist.

Straw Potatoes: An Alternate Planting Method

"Planting" potatoes on the top of the ground and covering with straw has been cleverly named "straw potatoes."

Till or loosen your soil, adding compost similar to the previous method. Tilling the compost and bonemeal into the soil works well.

Lay the potatoes on top of the ground 10 to 12 inches apart the same as you would trenched potatoes, then cover with 4 to 6 inches of straw.

Within a couple weeks you should see potato seedling popping up through the straw. Add straw around the plants during the season if the straw cover gets to thin.

Straw potatoes have very few weeds, especially if you are able to procure clean barley straw. Pull the few weeds that do emerge.

Use of straw helps keep the soil temperature below 80°F even on the hottest summer days, reducing water loss.

If you want to enter your potatoes into the county fair, using the strawing method for growing potatoes will produce a more physically attractive spud than one grown in the dirt.

GROWING

When your potato seedlings reach about 6" in height, mound another 3" of soil around the base of the plant to keep the potatoes from being exposed to the sun. Do this every couple of weeks until the potatoes flower.

This prevents your potatoes from turning green; a potato that has turned green contains a bitter-tasting alkaloid that is mildly poisonous.

As previously mentioned, once your potato seedlings have reached about 6" in height, you can either mound soil around your plants or, and this is my preferred method, you can add about 3 to 4 inches of clean straw mulch around your plants.

Mulching helps maintain a more even and lower soil temperature which is conducive to growing potatoes; and it helps keep the weeds under control.

One additional feature of straw mulch is that it makes it difficult for the Colorado Potato Beetle larvae to get to your potato plants.

When weeding your potatoes, pull the weeds by hand as potatoes grow very close to the surface of the soil and tilling might damage the young tubers.

Avoid heavy fertilization of potatoes which encourages excessive foliage growth and delays tuber growth. Most of the fertilizing should be done before the potatoes are planted.

Jenny's Tip #2: This past year we discovered a liquid organic leaf spray fertilizer called Organic Garden Miracle™ (OGM). This leaf spray naturally stimulates your garden plants to produce more plant sugar, which is the basis for the size, production, and the flavor and sweetness of your garden produce. We recommend this product highly; plus it comes with a really good warranty.

WATERING

For most of the growing season, potatoes require about one inch of water weekly. If you're mulching, check moisture levels weekly, but you shouldn't need as much water.

If you have sandy soil, you may need to water more frequently. Mulching will help, but the water will drain downwards rather than evaporating upwards.

If you are able to, use soaker hoses or drip irrigation and make sure your soil stays wet at least 12" down.

Light watering of potatoes is virtually useless. Erratic irrigation may cause "hollow heart;" the inside of the potato will be hollow.

Reduce watering when the plants begin to yellow and die.

COMPANION PLANTING / CROP ROTATION

Alyssum attracts beneficial wasps and acts as a living mulch.

Horseradish is said to ward off Colorado Potato Beetles (I haven't tried this, but it appears to be well-founded).

Marigolds also are noted to keep beetles away from Potatoes.

Tomatoes and Potatoes should not be planted near each other as they can infect each other with early and late blight.

Potatoes shouldn't be planted in the same area for at least 4 years after they have grown in an area.

Potatoes and Winter Squash (Pumpkins, Butternut, etc.), if planted near each other, will inhibit each other's growth.

WHEN TO HARVEST

You can begin to harvest "new potatoes" when potato plants are still green - we usually wait until the plant is flowering.

Harvest your potatoes after most of the vines have died, before the soil temperature drops below 40°F, causing the starches to turn to sugar (makes potatoes lose their flavor).

Harvest just after a light frost and before the heavy frosts begin in the fall; if you can, wait a couple of weeks to let the potato skins harden.

Place shovel about a foot away from the main potato vine and dig straight down; pull back on your shovel...you should pop up a potato or two or three...repeat on the opposite side and continue down the row this way.

Be careful not to accidentally skin the potatoes as it will affect their long-range storability.

STORAGE

Don't wash your potatoes until you're ready to use them.

Store potatoes for a couple of weeks in a cool, dry area at about 55° to 60°F, then store them in a very cool, dark place - 40° to 45°F at 90% Humidity - through the winter.

The best practice for storing tomatoes is to layer newspaper between the layers of potatoes in a wooden box if you're able to buy or build them.

Jenny's Tip #3: We dug a 4' x 6' x 54" deep hole, lined it with a plywood box, and put our root crops in the bottom, covered them with about 18" of barley straw, and covered the hole with an old 3/4" sheet of plywood. It stays right about 40°F all winter in our "root cellar."

PREVENTATIVE AND NATURAL SOLUTIONS TO COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Colorado Potato Beetle:

Probably the most common pest attacking potatoes is the Colorado Potato Beetle.

This striped beetle winters in the soil, then re-appears the following spring.

Both adult and larvae beetles feed on the potato plant leaves; if left unchecked, they can defoliate the entire potato plant.

Potatoes grow fastest after flowering, so this is the most important time to make sure these beetles are under control.

Insecticides available to home gardeners are virtually powerless against the Colorado potato beetle due to insecticide resistance.

If you have a small garden, handpicking is generally quite effective (we had about six 60' rows year before last and we handpicked the beetles).

Check under the leaves and crush any yellowish-orange eggs you find.

Early varieties tend to be unaffected by the beetles as the crop is done by the time the beetles are out in any great quantities.

Another complex and common parasite is the root-knot nematode. Due to space requirements this will be discussed in the Resources section.

Flea Beatles:

Flea beetles are small, shiny black beetles that attack your potato seedlings. They chew tiny holes in the leaves, reducing plant vitality and decreasing the plant's yield.

Row covers over the seedlings is the best organic solution to keeping these pests away from your young plants. Remove when the temperatures get too hot.

Marigolds planted among your potatoes is said to deter beetles, although we haven't tried this yet (maybe this year).

ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS

Early blight / late blight; early blight cause lesions on your potatoes and late blight causes leaf spots on potato plants.

Early blight is caused by a fungus called Alternaria solani. It causes dark, sunken lesions on the potatoes that have raised purplish edges. These can be cut off before cooking and eating as they remain mostly on the surface of the spuds.

The best preventions is crop rotation and maintaining proper soil nutrition (see Prepping Your Soil above).

Late blight is caused by a fungus called Phytophthora infestans. If there is a cool, rainy spell, late blight can spread rapidly, killing all your potato plants.

Late blight also affects nightshade family plants including tomatoes, which is why these two crops should not be near each other in your garden.

Late blight looks like water-soaked lesions on your potato plants lower leaves; these lesions will eventually kill the leaves, then the plant. It can also spread to the potato, causing dry rot.

Prevention is similar to early blight. Rotate your crops and don't plant near tomatoes. Water your plants in the morning so they'll dry out as moisture is what causes this fungus to spread.

Verticillium: this is a very information heavy topic. If you want to know more about it, go to this section on our Resources page.

Scab: a very common diseases in potatoes, is caused by a strep bacteria.

Scab appears mostly in potatoes that are grown in soils with a pH of greater than 5.2, and in drought conditions.

It mainly affects the potato itself, and not the plant. You can't really see any affect above the ground.

Scab doesn't affect potatoes in storage, and is harmless to humans.

It shows up as a lesion, but is mostly cosmetic as these potatoes can be eaten safely by humans.

If you choose scab resistant varieties, you'll likely have few issues with scab.

Don't use manure, lime or wood ash in your garden, and keep your potatoes well-watered, especially during flowering.

And of course, always plant your potatoes in different areas for at least four years.

Growing Organic Spinach

WHEN TO PLANT

If you're growing organic spinach, it grows best in the cooler weather at the beginning and end of your area's growing season. Spinach seeds can be planted once the ground is workable (which is up to 8 weeks before the last frost date) with consecutive plantings through spring.

Longer days cause the plant to go to seed quicker (bolting), so planting it as early as possible is advisable. Stop planting once the warm weather plants go outside (such as peppers and tomatoes). You can start growing spinach again in late summer for a fall crop.

WHERE TO PLANT

Growing spinach works best in full sun in early spring. As spring progresses, plant consecutive plantings in partial shade to protect from the increasing heat, slowing the bolting process.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Spinach has a deep tap root so till the soil at least 1’ deep and provide generous amounts of organic matter to keep the soil well-aerated. Although spinach will grow in a wide variance of soils, it will perform best in rich, organic matter such as compost or alfalfa meal.

Prepare your planting area in the fall so you can plant your seeds in the spring as soon as the ground thaws.

The optimal pH levels for growing spinach should be between 6.5 and 7.5.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Your seeds should be good for up to 5 years after your purchase date if they're stored in a cool, dry, location.

Once you've planted your spinach, it typically takes about 43 to 50 days until your plants are mature.

For a higher germination rate, place spinach seeds between wet paper towels and place in a Zip-loc bag. Keep bag in refrigerator 5-7 days.

Seeds will germinate best when daytime temperatures are around 60 F and will tolerate nighttime temperatures as low as 40 F. Shade soil until germination.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (transplanting)

Seeds can be started in flats 3-4 weeks before the last frost date in temperatures 70ºF or below. For quicker germination, see the chilling method in the section above titled "Seeds and Germination."

SOWING AND GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)

Rather than planting a large spinach crop in early spring (unless you are planning to freeze a batch for winter usage) we recommend planting smaller batches every week to 10 days. This will provide you maximum availability of fresh spinach.

If a frost is predicted after you have planted, cover with a row cover and welcome the frost! The more often the temperatures drop the sweeter the spinach will be.

In more temperate climates, or with the use of a cold frame, spinach can often be planted year around.

In warmer climates provide spinach plants with some shelter from the sun; plant in the shade of taller crops such as corn or pole beans.

Thin young seedlings to 6” apart once two true leaves have formed. Once plants develop four true leaves you can give them a boost every couple of weeks with a fish emulsion or a leaf spray (see Jenny's Tip just below), promoting new growth and a sweeter leaf.

Jenny's Tip: We discovered a new liquid organic leaf spray fertilizer this year called Organic Garden Miracle™ - this product increases plant sugar production in your plant, naturally. Plant sugar makes a stronger, bigger, better and sweeter plant. You may want to check it out.

Removing large developed leaves will postpone bolting. Also remove any brown leaves; these are not good for eating and will sap the plant of it’s strength.

If leaves become large and few tender leaves are forming, cut the entire plant 1” above soil level; this will encourage the plant to grow another crop of leaves.

Once the plant begins to form a center stalk (bolting), the leaves will become bitter tasting.

When growing spinach in late summer, plant more seeds than you did in the spring; the increased heat causes germination to be more sporadic.

WATERING

Keep moisture levels moist but not soggy. Allowing soil to dry out will encourage plants to bolt.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

Growing spinach in your garden will benefit all succeeding crops planted in the same location. Do not follow spinach with legumes.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Harvesting can begin once the plant has developed at least 6 leaves, usually 6-8 weeks after planting. Pick leaves from the outside of the plant as soon as they are big enough to use (think of baby spinach leaves).

STORAGE

Spinach can be dried in a food dehydrator. Dry unwashed leaves until they break easily; store in a paper bag or other food container, avoiding folds in the leaves.

Spinach can also be frozen. Blanche 1 to 2 minutes and when cool, place in quart-size Zip-loc bags and store in freezer.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Since spinach grows in very cool temperatures, pests are usually not an issue. If any spotted cucumber beetles are present, handpick them off the plant and destroy them.

Avoid over-watering spinach which can lead to mildew.