Growing Organic Winter Squash

WHY IS IT CALLED "WINTER SQUASH"

Winter Squash could be considered a deceptive term considering it needs warm summer conditions to thrive.

There are many types of winter squash including butternut, acorn, hubbard, pumpkins, calabaza, delicata, kabocha, spaghetti, and cusha are 9 of the more common varieties, although this list is not all-inclusive.

Winter squash is different from summer squash in that it is harvested and eaten at full maturity while summer squash (such as zucchini) is best picked young. Unlike summer squash, winter squash has long-term storage capabilities (hence the name ‘winter’ squash).

WHEN TO PLANT

Winter squash need 75-120 days of frost free outdoor weather to bring fruit to full maturity. Seeds can be planted outdoors a week after the last frost date or when soil temperatures maintain a steady 60F.

WHERE TO PLANT/SOIL PREP

Squash needs full sun in rich healthy soil. Squash are heavy feeders. These plants thrive in soil rich in organic compost and well-rotted manure.

Mix adequate amounts of the aforementioned amendments into your soil, but be careful not to pass recommended nitrogen (N) levels; excessive nitrogen levels will give your plants great foliage but minimal fruit. pH level 6.0-6.5

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Choosing a disease resistant squash seed is the first step for a successful organic crop and harvest. Winter squash seeds require warmer temperatures for germination of between 70F-95F, with the optimum temperature being 95F; squash seeds last up to 4 years.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (and transplanting)

If a cooler summer is predicted or you live in an area with a short growing season, give your squash a head start indoors. Squash has a very delicate root system; if disturbed the plant will be stunted or die; to minimize risk plant in individual 4” pots (preferably peat pots).

Plant your indoor starts 1 month before the last frost date, 2-3 seeds per individual pot, clipping the weaker seedlings once they develop their first 2 true leaves.

Before transplanting seedlings outdoors, harden off (take outdoors during the daytime) for 1 week; bring them in towards evening, as the seedlings are sensitive to cold. Hot caps will protect and keep the plant warm until warmer weather arrives.

PLANTING/GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)

We recommend hill planting for your winter squash. Planting on mounded soil will provide added warmth and good drainage for your plants.

To form each hill, first dig a hole 1’ deep and fill with compost. Mound soil mixed with a shovel full of well aged manure forming a 1’ high and 2’-3’ wide hill. Space hills at least 5’ apart to allow room for sprawling vines which can grow 10’-20’.

Sow 6 seeds in a circle 1” deep on the top of each hill, but hold off thinning until the plants are well established. When you thin your plants, leave the three strongest plants.

To give your seedlings an early boost, cover your planting area with plastic 1-2 weeks before transplanting.

Squash is very susceptible to disease, especially when exposed to too much rain. If you are having an abnormally wet year, or your area is prone to rain, consider building a cold frame to give your squash plants some shelter during the rainy season.

If garden space is limited, provide a framework to climb. Tie 3 poles together at the top and spread the legs out to form a tripod. Secure the poles by burying the legs 6-12” into the soil; a trellis is also a good support system.

Weeds are tough competition for growing squash, especially when they are young. Suppress the competition by shallow cultivation or hand weeding before the squash plants begin to sprawl.

Once the vines begin to spread outward, add a thick layer of mulch (such as straw, hay, or leaves). This will also keep the fruit from having direct contact with the soil and minimize rot.

Bees are necessary for pollinating winter squash. Here on our farm, getting our plants pollinated is never a problem since our neighbor raises honey bees. If you are uncertain of the bee population and want to ensure pollination you can hand pollinate your squash flowers.

To do this, simply pluck the male flower and remove all petals; whirl it around inside the female flower so that the male stamen transfers pollen to the female pistil.

When the first fruits appear, fertilize your plants with compost tea or side-dress with composted manure.

By mid-summer, winter squash will have developed all the fruit that will have time to mature. Remove remaining flowers so the plant can put all its energy into ripening the existing fruit.

WATERING

Keep seedlings moist throughout the growing season. Overhead watering creates the same environment for disease as excessive rain does. Wet foliage is a breeding ground for diseases such as powdery mildew, downy mildew and black rot.

Using drip irrigation will help keep the foliage dry and the roots moist. When rain does occur, avoid spreading mildew by not handling the plants when wet. Squash does require high levels of water, but avoid standing water.

COMPANION PLANTING / ROTATION

It has also been observed that when growing squash, pests are effectively reduced by the presence of nasturtiums, oregano, marigolds, mints, bee balm, catnip, tansy, and radish.

Some backyard gardeners claim that planting potatoes amongst squash plants helps to detour the squash bug even though potatoes are considered by many a “bad companion.”

Potatoes generally are not recommended to plant next to squash because they have different soil requirements.

Squash needs composted manure to grow, but manure causes scabs in potatoes. This is easily solved by hill planting and concentrating your amendments to plant type. Crop rotation is also strongly recommended.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Harvest squash before the first heavy frosts. Light to medium frost will increase sugar content in the fruit and cause the foliage to die off, making harvesting easier. Squash, when ripe, will change to a deep, solid color, different from what it was during the growing stage.

To test for ripeness, try to push your fingernail through the outer skin. A ripe fruit will have a tough rind making this difficult to do. Squash will be ready for harvest when the outer shell becomes hard enough that your finger nail cannot easily penetrate the rind.

Leave two inches of stem on the squash when harvesting to prolong its shelf life.

STORAGE

To properly cure squash after the harvest, place your harvested squash in an area that remains 75F-85F for 2 weeks. Next transfer squash to a location for the winter that maintains a temperature around 50F and humidity of 50-75%.

Fruits that have been damaged by frost, bruised, or did not fully ripen will not have a long storage life and should be used immediately.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

One organic solution to prevent mold is the application of baking soda as a fungicide.

Cornell University successfully sprayed pumpkin foliage with a mixer of baking soda and horticulture oil at 0.5% per gallon.

Some less definitive studies suggest that simply an ounce of baking soda with a gallon of water is effective on plant leaves and when used at this ratio and won’t harm plant or fruit.

Give your plants a boost with a liquid organic leaf spray every two weeks to help build strong immunity against pest and disease, as well as to increase the size and sweetness.

Squash Beetle, squash vine borer, cucumber beetle, and aphids are all risks to winter squash. A tightly secured row cover over the young plants will repel these bugs, although row covers must be removed when flowers appear so pollination can take place.

To further fight pests you may want to use organics such as diatomaceous earth, sabadilla, or neem oil, though these can tend to be expensive and the effect may not be worth the expense.

If you have a long growing season you may be able disrupt pests by staggered plantings.

Growing Organic Watermelon

When to Plant

A long growing season (at least 3 months of warm weather) is needed to mature and develop sweet watermelons. In short summer areas, a warm indoor start can count towards the long-season requirements.

If you live in the North, starting your watermelon seeds indoors 2-4 weeks before your last frost date will allow you to take advantage of any warm, sunny days outdoors and still be able to bring them in at night or on cooler days.

Planting too early will cause the plants to develop tendrils or more than four leaves which may cause your plants to have difficulty setting roots once they are transplanted to the garden.

In the warmer southern climates, watermelons can be direct-seeded in the garden once soil temperatures have reached a steady 75-80F.

Where to Plant

The key to growing a successful watermelon crop is to provide as many sunny, warm days as possible for the growing plants and protect them from cold temperatures. The more exposure warmth the vines receive, the more fruit your plants will produce in the summer

Watermelons require full sun and plenty of heat. Give your watermelons the sunniest spot available with good air circulation. This will help the plants dry out quickly after a rain to prevent diseases.

Preparing the Soil

Watermelons prefer well-drained, sandy loam soils with a pH level between 6.0 and 6.5.

Soils with a pH less than 6.0 will produce plants with yellowed foliage and fewer perfect flowers.

Good drainage is critical for preventing disease in your melon plants. If your soil doesn’t drain water well, mix a generous amount of organic matter into the soil before planting.

We recommend mounding your soil into hills. Raised hills improve drainage and helps keep the soil temperatures up.

If you water with soaker hoses, mounding up a row (rather than hills) will make watering easier.

Mix in a shovel full of well-aged manure where you plan each hill. This is especially important if a spring crop has already been planted in this area and taken nutrients from the soil.

Mound your manure amended soil into hills about 12” tall and 2’-3’ wide. Space each hill 4’-6’ apart, depending on how much space your variety needs.

Adding 2-3” of aged manure or compost before planting your melons will give the plants a nutrient boost and improve your soil’s structure.

As much as I'm not a fan of plastic, it's almost a necessity when trying to grow watermelons in a shorter growing season. This is something you will need to decide for yourself. Watermelons build up sugar and develop sweetness in their final days of growth so providing the necessary warmth is critical for a growing a good watermelon crop.

Covering your planting area with plastic a couple weeks before transplanting will warm the soil more quickly. Depending on the weather, this can allow you to transplant your seedlings outdoors up to 7 to 10 days earlier than without the use of plastic.

If plastic is left throughout the growing season, it will reduce ground rot in your fruit (fruits rotting from sitting on soil). Clear plastic mulch will heat the soil up 4-5 degrees warmer but black plastic will prevent weed growth.

Ventilation holes must be made in your plastic mulch to allow oxygen into the soil. If your plastic doesn't have pre-made ventilation holes and it is still on the roll, you can use a ¾” drill and drill your own holes through the layers at an 8”x8” spacing.

Choosing the Right Seeds

When choosing a watermelon variety, consider how much space the plant requires to spread out. If you have a limited growing area, choose a bush type that is more compact. Some heirloom or more vigorous varieties can take up 100 square feet per plant and only produce 2-3 fruits.

Seeds and Germination

Watermelon seeds germinate optimally between 70 and 90 degrees F. At these temperatures, seeds will germinate within 5-10 days. At temperatures below 60F, germination will not occur.

Getting Started Indoors

Watermelons don't survive frost or maintain proper growth at temperatures below 60F. In areas with short summers, seeds must be started inside and later transplanted outdoors; be extremely careful not to disturb the roots. Watermelon plants do not thrive well if their roots are disturbed, even when young seedlings.

Plant your seeds in loose potting soil (not seed germinating mix as it contains no nutrients for the developing seedling).

Plant 2 seeds ½” deep per 4” individual pot (I plant 2 seeds in case one seed does not germinate, and as the seeds get older I might add 1 or 2 more just to be sure I get one good plant). Watermelon seeds remain usable for 5 years after your initial purchase.

Keep planted seeds in a warm, sunny area (such as a south-facing window) where soil temperatures maintain between 70F-95F. Use bottom heat if necessary to maintain around 75F soil temperature

Once your seedlings are 2” tall, thin each pot to the one strongest plant by cutting the other seedlings off at soil level.

Transplanting to Outdoors

Starting your seeds indoors can extend your melon growing season 2 to 4 weeks but melons are particularly sensitive to transplanting. If the roots are disturbed, your plants growth will be stunted.

Vines may not set fruit if they're chilled when seedlings so be sure the soil temperatures remain steady at all times and the garden soil has warmed to 70-80F before transplanting outside. Planting in cooler soil will also increase the chance of soil-borne root diseases developing.

To prevent disturbing the roots, 4” use peat pots or other bio-degradable planting pots instead of plastic seedling pots. Peat pots will decompose quickly and allow you to plant the pot directly in the garden bed when you transplant the seedlings.

Carefully tear or cut out the bottom of the peat pot before planting in the ground to allow the roots to spread more quickly. Be very careful not to cut the roots. If the roots are too dense (root bound) at the bottom, don't cut the bottom out as you may damage the roots.

Transplants should have 2-3 mature leaves and a well-developed root system when they are moved into the garden. Planting seedlings that have developed 4 or more leaves may have difficulty setting roots once transplanted to the garden.

If you covered your soil with plastic to help bring up the soil temperature, you can remove the plastic before planting or leave the plastic down to continue locking in the heat. Cut slits in the plastic every 4 to 6 feet and plant seedlings through the slits.

If you choose to leave the plastic down, be sure to anchor it well. Plastic that is not anchored well can blow off during a windy day, breaking your plants in the process.

If growing watermelon in rows, space seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart within the row. Space rows 5 to 6 feet apart.

In shorter season areas, only plant one plant per hill so it will not compete for nutrients with other vines. In warmer climates, 2-3 plants can be planted per hill.

Crop Covers
To protect your young plants from wind damage, which can retard growth and reduce the amount of fruit the vine will set, place hot caps, plastic tunnels, or a row cover over the plants the first 2-3 weeks until the plants have a chance to better establish themselves.

The use of one of these coverings will also protect your plants from cooler air temperatures and early insect pests.

Remove the covering within 2-3 weeks to avoid high temperature plant injury and to allow bees and other pollinators easy access to the flowers.

Direct planting (planting seeds directly into garden bed)

Follow the above instructions for preparing your soil and forming hills. Once your hills are formed and amended with well-aged manure or compost, plant the seeds ½” – 1” deep, sowing six seeds per hill.

When your watermelon plants have reached 2” tall, thin seedlings to 2-3 plants per hill by leaving the healthiest and most vigorous seedlings and cutting the remaining plants off at soil level.

If planting in rows, plant 2 to 3 seeds together ( a couple inches apart from each other) every 18 to 24 inches within the row. Once the seedlings are 2” tall, thin to the best plant per group by cutting the remaining plants off at soil level.

Don't pull weeds up by hand. Hand-pulling could disturb the root systems of the other plants and pull them out of the soil.

Mulching

Applying 2-3” of mulch around the plant will conserve soil moisture and reduce weed growth.

Organic mulches like woodchips or straw can also be used when growing watermelons, but do not apply organic mulches until soils are warmer than 75ºF. Applying organic mulches too early keeps the soil cool, resulting in slow growth and shallow rooting.

Weeding

The roots of melons grow close to the surface of the soil, so it's important not to cultivate too deeply or too close to the plants. Cultivate just deeply enough to cut the weeds off below the surface of the soil. Continue cultivating until the vines begin to spread between the rows. Then pull large weeds by hand.

Watering

Regular deep watering is especially crucial during the first 3 to 4 weeks that watermelon vines are growing in your garden. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are the best way to give watermelons a steady supply of moisture. Water deeply and infrequently (1-2 times per week); provide a total of 1-2 inches of water per week.

Cut back on the water once the plants have started to set fruit; overwatering will dilute the melon's sugars, causing it to be less flavorful and lose sweetness. Too much water could also stress the plant and cause less fruit to develop.

There is very little benefit in a light watering that only wets the soil’s surface. Deep, infrequent, but consistent watering is extremely important especially in the last 2 weeks of growth. Excessive watering at this stage can cause the fruit to split.

Companion Planting and Rotation Considerations

Watermelon doesn’t allow much room for companions, and does best when it can sprawl out freely without competing for nutrients with other plants.

You can try planting Marigolds or Nasturtiums in the area which deter beetles, or Oregano which provides general pest protection but it is likely the vines will smother them if planted too close. They need to be in their own pot or raised bed, out of the reach of the encroaching vines.

Because watermelons are in a different class than muskmelons (cantaloupe) and both require the same care, they're good companions. Watermelons and muskmelons share the same nutrient requirements and have the same watering needs; and because they are in a different class, their seeds won't cross-pollinate.

When to Harvest

Ripe watermelon doesn't slip from the vine when it is ripe, so it takes a little more know-how to tell when a watermelon is ready to pick.

Use this combination of indicators to check for ripeness:

Tendrils near the fruit stem have become brown and dry;

The fruit surface is rough to the touch and the fruit color is dull;

The bottom of the watermelon (where it lies on the soil) has changed from a light green to a yellowish color;

Look for ‘black sap spots’. These are caused by bees extracting the juice from the melon. If there are several beads of hard black sugars, you know you've got a sweet melon.

Preventative and Natural solutions to Common Pests and Problems

The use of row covers will help prevent infestations of most pests (see Row Covers, Hot Caps, & Plastic Tunnels)

Striped and Spotted Cucumber Beetles
These pests spread bacterial wilt throughout your crop when they feed; they tend to attack around the time the plants begin flowering. Note: Male flowers will appear first, at leaf joints on the main stem and female flowers will appear. About one week later, female flowers will develop off of secondary side-shoots.

Your best defense against these pests is to cover your plants with row covers until flowering. The covers must be removed once the female flowers appear so that the bees can access the plants for pollination.

A severe infestation can be controlled with pyrethrins; the pyrethrins are a pair of natural organic compounds that have potent insecticidal activity.

Melon Aphids
Aphids are tiny pear-shaped insects with long antennae that suck sap from the plant, causing the leaves to become distorted and drop.

A strong spray of water can often knock the insects off your plants. Crushing several cloves of garlic into a spray bottle filled with water and spraying mixture on the plants can often deter these pests. Insecticidal soap, pyrethrins, and neem oil are also effective organic insecticides for heavy infestations.

Squash Vine Borers
Squash vine borers look like 1” long white caterpillars. They bore through the stem of the plant and may be unnoticeable to the gardener until the vine begins to wilt.

In April (in the South) and in late June or early July (in the North), keep a lookout for an orange and black wasp-like moth. This is an adult borer which lays eggs at the base of the stem during this time. The tiny orange and red eggs are laid just below the surface of the soil. Remove and crush any eggs you can find.

Once the season progresses, keep an eye for entry holes at the base of the stems. If the hole is surrounded by a yellow dropping that resembles sawdust, cut a slit in the stem and remove any larvae. An injection of Bt can also be used (Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt, is a soil-dwelling bacterium, frequently used as an organic alternative to chemical pesticides).

Environmental Factors

Vine crops that have recently been transplanted or that have been direct-seeded outside and recently germinated have been known to suddenly wilt and die.

Most often this occurs when you have a stretch of 4 or more days of rainy, or overcast weather with no protection over your plants to retain heat.

If soil temperature drops down below 60F, the plant roots stop absorbing water from the soil.

When the sun does reappear, water evaporates from the leaves faster than the roots absorb water, which results in sudden wilting and death.

To prevent this from happening, keep your plants protected when cool wet weather is predicted with the use of row covers or hot caps.

In humid climates, watering the roots directly rather than soaking the leaves helps prevent many common foliar diseases.

Disease

Most diseases can be avoided by following these rules:

Choose varieties resistant to common diseases such as powdery mildew.

Wait until the soil has warmed to a minimum of 70F before planting seeds or transplants and keep soil temperatures consistently warm throughout the entire plant cycle.

Keep seeds and seedling beds moist but not water logged.

If starting indoors, plant seeds in 4” pots or larger to lessen root disturbance and allow more room for roots to develop properly.

Transplant seedlings once they have 2-3 true leaves.

Avoid over-applying Nitrogen (such as animal manure). Too much nitrogen, especially during fruit set, can encourage "hollow heart" and bland flavor.

Provide good air movement around plants by keeping weeds under control and planting with proper spacing .

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew, a fungus, can cause leaves to prematurely die, and reduce yield and fruit quality.

Damage can include brown spots, tattered holes in leaves, sunken brown lesions on vines, and rotted fruit.

Powdery mildew infections are usually caused by warm, humid conditions (68-81F), or the plant being damp too long from rain or overhead watering.

In warm, dry conditions, new spores are produced in leaf spots and can easily spread disease by being blown by the wind and infecting other leaves.

To avoid these diseases do not grow melons in an area where any member of the squash family has been grown for 3 years or more.

Reduce moisture on leaves by providing plants with proper space, controlling weeds, and using drip irrigation or a soaker hose instead of sprinkler irrigation.

Apply a natural fungicide when a single spot of powdery mildew is spotted.

Sulfur products can be applied to both the upper and lower surfaces of the leaves.

Remove severely infected plants and any debris from the garden.

Plant disease resistant varieties whenever available. Resistance is virus specific and it is necessary to first determine which mosaic virus is common in your area. A reputable seed company in your part of the country will have this information. If not, ask your county extension.

Purchase clean seed from a reputable supplier. If saving seeds, do not collect seed from infected plants.

Control weeds within and around the planting area. Especially perennial weeds that can carry the virus from one season to the next.

Control aphids and cucumber beetles early on to keep populations low.

If disease appears in a few plants, bury or dispose these plants to prevent further spread of the disease.

Wash hands and tools after working with infected plants.

Storage

Watermelons will keep in the refrigerator for up to one week, but not only will flavor and sweetness diminish, so will nutrition levels.

The best way to store a watermelon is at a room temperature of 50-60°, such as a basement. Watermelons will last up to 2-3 weeks and retain their flavor, sweetness and nutrition.

Melon flesh can be frozen (think watermelon smoothy) and rinds can be pickled.

Growing Organic Broccoli

WHEN TO PLANT

Broccoli is a cool weather vegetable and grows best at temperatures between 60-65F. Seeds can be sown directly into your garden up to 2 months before your last frost date if protected from cold temperatures with row covers.

Once daytime temperatures have reached a steady 60F or warmer, consecutive plantings can be direct seeded into your garden up until summer. To avoid crop damage from severe temperature fluctuations, we recommend starting your first planting indoors 5-6 weeks before your last frost date.

For a fall harvest, plant seeds directly into your garden up through early summer or up until temperatures reach a steady 75F and above.

WHERE TO PLANT

Broccoli likes full sun in the spring. When planting in early summer for a fall crop, find a place that provides some afternoon shade such as behind corn, or another tall crop; artificial shade can also be used.

A thick cover of mulch can also help keep your soil cool. These measures will help your broccoli not to bolt, or rice. "Bolting" means going to seed.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Broccoli is a heavy user of nitrogen. In the fall, work into your soil generous amounts of organic matter (such as autumn leaves) and manure.

The pH level for growing a healthy broccoli crop needs to be around 7.0. Using lime will help to raise the pH levels if they are low.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Your broccoli seeds will germinate best at temperatures 60-70. Broccoli needs approximately 4 to 5 days to germination, and the seeds should be good up to 3 years.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (transplanting)

Start growing broccoli seeds indoors 5-6 weeks before your last frost date. While indoors you will need to transplant seedlings one time to a larger pot or flat before transplanting to the garden.

Harden off one full week before planting in the garden. Transplanting broccoli when they are the proper size is critical for preventing premature heading. Transplant when seedlings are 6″ tall and have 2-4 leaves.

PLANTING AND GROWING BROCCOLI IN YOUR GARDEN

Space rows 24” apart and place plants in rows 18-24” apart. Plant broccoli 1” deeper in the garden than what they were in the pot or flat.

An extended cold spell of 50-60F days and 30F nights can affect your crop by producing small, underdeveloped heads called ‘buttons’. Use row covers if needed

Monthly supplements of compost tea and fish emulsion, along with a foliar spray will help to feed your nutrient hungry broccoli.

WATERING

Presoak the soil before planting indoors or outdoors. Broccoli needs about 1” of water a week. Adjust for more in arid areas.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

Plant broccoli away from where brassica was growing the previous year; this will discourage brassica pests from proliferating.

WHEN TO HARVEST

As the weather warms past 75F watch your broccoli carefully. You'll want to be diligent to harvest before the head blooms.

With a sharp knife, cut stem at the point where the top branches begin. After the harvest you should have a secondary harvest of small florets growing up from the stem.

STORAGE

Broccoli will last up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

Freezing is the best method for preserving it’s natural flavor and color; other methods include pickling or preserving in oil.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Overhead watering will help detach insects from the plant.

Controlling nitrogen levels keep the aphid numbers down; high levels of nitrogen have been shown to increase aphid population.

Using compost or straw mulches will significantly reduce the amount of fly larvae hatched directly into the soil, and floating row covers used as soon as the plant emerges, or right after transplanting will also prevent larvae hatchings.

Clubroot (a fungus that attacks the roots) can be controlled by keeping soil pH at 7.2.

Rotating your crop every year (planting in a different location than the previous year) will also help to eliminate pest and disease issues.

Growing Organic Carrots

WHEN TO PLANT

Carrot seeds may be sown outdoors 3 weeks before the last expected frost; and when the soil temperature stays at least 45F during the day. A severe frost can damage young carrots.

Germination in carrots is slow, often times taking a month when planted early in cooler temperatures.

In sub-tropical regions plant carrots in fall or winter.

Soil temperatures of 75-80F during the day is optimal and can be accomplished in cooler temperatures by using row covers over the bed to hold in heat.

Carrots take 70-80 days to mature.

Plant a quick-maturing variety for early for a summer harvest; plant a second crop 2-3 months before the last expected frost date for your winter harvest.

WHERE TO PLANT

Carrots produce best in full sun but can tolerate light shade.

Plant in soil that is mostly free of rocks for best results.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Carrots are capable of having a very deep root system (up to 3’ feet down).

Loosen the soil in your carrot bed 10-12” down; remove larger rocks and break up clumpy soil. Once the soil is loosened, you can add 12-18” of loose soil on top to form a raised bed if desired.

Mixing fully composted material in will help to loosen the soil, but avoid using fresh manure as the high levels of nitrogen will produce leggy, poor tasting carrots.

Test the pH level in your soil; carrots require a pH between 6.0 – 6.5.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Carrots are difficult to space evenly and easy to over-plant. The best way to sow carrot seeds is to roll them out between your thumb and index finger.

Sow about 5-6 seeds per inch. Cover your seeds with a minimum of ¼” soil but not more than ½”.

Planting your seeds in a row, even if the rows are tightly spaced, is easier to manage when it comes to thinning and weeding compared to broadcasting.

Once your seeds are planted, water the bed very gently so you do not wash your seeds away – do not let soil dry out.

GROWING CARROTS (Planting seeds directly into the garden)

Once your carrot tops have grown 2” high, thin plants to 1” apart; after another two weeks, thin your plants again to 3”-4” apart. This will allow ample room for your growing carrots and prevent them from becoming deformed.

As your seedlings grow, cover the crowns (where the carrot meets the stem) with an organic mulch such as dry leaves or straw; exposed crowns will turn green and cause the carrot to taste bitter.

We prefer to use straw for mulch – leaves work OK but before they have time to compost down they are likely to blow around the yard. If available, use barley straw; it is more absorbent than wheat straw and retains moisture longer.

Once soil temperatures rise above 70F, carrots become stunted and bland tasting. Covering your carrots with straw or another organic mulch will keep the soil temperature down when temperatures begin to rise.

On a Personal Note:

We used a leaf spray this year that increased both the size and the sweetness of our carrots called Organic Garden Miracle™. It increases the plant sugar in your garden plants, flowers, and even trees. We're very impressed with this product. (See picture at the top of the

page for example).

WATERING

The mulch you apply will help provide even moisture levels and minimize weeds. If your soil is dry, gradually water the bed over several days.

Avoid a sudden heavy watering; this could cause the roots to split.

COMPANION PLANTING / ROTATION

Good companions to carrots are tomatoes, beans, rosemary, cabbage, brussels sprouts, peas, onions, lettuce, radishes, & peppers – all of these all have shorter root systems and do not hinder the formation of the carrot.

Bad companions are celery, dill, and parsnips as their growth is affected by close proximity.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Patience is rewarded with sweeter-tasting and crisper carrots; carrots improve in flavor the longer they have to mature.

You can harvest your carrots as soon as they are big enough to eat or wait until they are fully mature and harvest them all at once for winter storage. If harvesting the entire crop, do so before your first frost in the fall.

Moisten the soil the day before harvesting if needed to soften the soil, making the removal of the carrot easier and less likely to break.

The use of a digging bar (inserted a couple inches away from the root and rocking it back and forth) has worked very well for us when trying to remove deep-rooted carrots; a spading fork is not recommended as it is more likely to bruise or damage the roots, and a shovel

may not reach down far enough causing the carrot to break off at the tip.

On a Personal Note:

This year we put a 12-18in. layer of dry barley straw mulch over our half of our carrots to keep them from getting frozen in the ground, which ruins carrots. We’ve had nights this year as low as -15F, and the carrots are staying warm enough that we’ll be harvesting fresh

carrots at the end of winter or very early spring!

STORAGE

When storing carrots for the winter, twist off the tops of only the mature, straight, undamaged carrots and line a crate, plastic bucket, or wooden box with newspaper. Layer the carrots (preferably not touching each other) placing newspaper in between layers (sand also

works well but is a bit messier to deal with).

Preferably, store in a root cellar or a cool, dark location (such as under the house or in the garage). Ideal storage conditions are 32-40°F and 95% relative humidity.

On a Personal Note:

Our cellar contains one refrigerator and three freezers, so it isn’t overly cooled, so Barry dug a 4ft. wide x 6ft. long by 4.5ft. deep hole on the edge of the garden, lined it with a plywood box, and covered the root crops like carrots and potatoes with dry barley straw – at least

12″ thick. It keeps the carrots nice and cool all winter and they don’t freeze.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

When you're ">growing carrots biggestthreats are animals such as deer, rabbits, woodchucks and gophers; protecting your garden with fencing is your

best option.

If carrot flies (rust flies) are a problem in your area, waiting to plant until after June 1 and harvest before mid September will avoid the first and second hatching of larvae.

Sage or Black Salsify is also known to repel the carrot fly.

SAVING SEEDS

Insects can cross-pollinate carrot blossoms up to 200 feet (to guarantee pure seed 1,000 ft is recommended). For the backyard gardener who is new to seed-saving, grow one variety, and make sure your neighbor isn’t growing carrots nearby.

Queen Ann’s Lace, a close wild relative, will also cross-pollinate freely with your garden carrots. If this common weed grows in your garden, keep it mowed or pulled when your seed carrots are going into bloom.

To harvest the seeds, pick seed heads when the second set of heads has ripened; if you wait until the third or fourth umbel to ripen, the earlier seeds will "shatter" (release and drop to the ground).

To collect the greatest amount of seeds, plants can be bagged with spun polyester cloth (also known as Reemay) to catch all the ripening seeds as they shatter.

Growing Organic Sweet Onions

WHEN TO PLANT

There are 2 different ways to begin growing onions; seeds or sets.

Plant onion seeds in January or February; mild winter areas are also able to begin planting in the fall.

Plant young sets (also known as seedlings or bulbs) outdoors in April or May or when soil temperatures reach a steady 55F.

The ability for the onion bulb to form is dependent on the length of day; longer, warmer days encourage bulbing.

Bulb development will not take place in colder weather no matter how long the day.

There are 3 categories of onions for different climates:

Long-day: the best choice for Northern gardeners. Longer summer days (15+ hours during the summer months) provide the needed day length for bulb development.

Intermediate-day: the best choice for those gardening in the middle-section of the United States. 14 hours of daylight is needed to induce bulbing.

Short-day: best for Southern climates which only need 8-12 hours a day to trigger bulbing.

Note: Your seed/set supplier is a good resource for other questions regarding onions in your region.

WHERE TO PLANT

Onions grow best in full sun, although in the heat of the summer, a little shade is desirable as it will delay the plant from seeding too quickly.

Plant your onions behind a taller crop (tomatoes are a good choice), as they can provide some shade on hot mid-summer days.

PREPARING THE SOIL

The fewer rocks in your soil, the better. Rocks cause deformities in the onion bulb’s development.

To improve heavy soil, loosen the soil at least 18” down and mix in well rotted manure, compost, shredded leaves or other organic matter.

Onions prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.6-6.8.

Sandy loam soil is good when mineral content is high. Avoid planting in clay soil

Soil should be non-crusting so bulbs don’t “cement in” and stunt growth. Keep your soil moist for best results.

If your soil is potassium deficient, your onions will store poorly; if your soil is phosphorus deficient, your onions will have thick necks and smaller bulbs; and too much nitrogen will delay the bulb's development, and discontinue supplementing nitrogen once the bulbs begin to form.

For sweeter onions, avoid gypsum fertilizers (which contain sulfur).

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Growing onions from seed offers the most variety but can take up to 5 months to mature and the plants are more susceptible to disease than sets.

Using fresh onion seeds is important; if not kept cool and dry, they lose viability quickly. Onion seed viability is about 1 year in cool, dry storage.

Germination occurs at temperatures 50-95F, with the optimum temperature around 75F for quickest germination.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (and transplanting)

Start your seeds indoors AT LEAST 8 weeks before the last frost.

If indoor growing space is limited, plant seeds ¼” apart in flats; leave onions in flats until outdoor planting.

In the early growth stage, young plants grow best in cool temperatures around 60F

Keep temperatures below 70F during the day and around 50F at night.

SOWING AND GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)

Onion sets are easier to plant than seeds, and availability of varieties may be limited

When planting in spring or fall, loosen the soil well. Push bulbs into the soft dirt just far enough to secure in place but don’t cover the tops.

Early weed control is vital to the health and development of onion starts. Be careful not to disturb the onion’s roots when pulling weeds. Pulling weeds too close to the bulb could pull the onion start from the ground.

Consistent weeding is advised to keep the weeds from growing large; if you find a large weed, clip it at ground level if it’s too close to a bulb.

For direct-to-ground seeding, the maximum seed depth should not exceed ½” (¼” in heavy soil).

When planting in rows, thin the onions to 4” apart.

As top spears become thick like chives, harvest early shoots for green onions.

Another option for growing onions is to sow your transplants or sets in a grid formation with enough room for easy cultivation (think of a tick-tack-toe grid).

While the day length remains consistent from year to year, air and soil temperature will vary. This may affect your crop quality.

On a Personal Note: At On The Green Farms we’ve successfully grown our own sets from the seeds of rare Italian varieties such as Yellow of Parma, Red of Florence, and Bianca Di Maggio. Perpetuating these old world onions preserve a history and a flavor well worth preserving!

WATERING

Keep soil moist, but not soggy from planting through harvest. Once outdoors, onion plants need 1” of water weekly with occasional heavier applications throughout the season.

Growing onions are susceptible to disease when their tops are wet. If you are able to, use a soaker hose to keep the water on the ground and off the leaves.

If overhead watering is your only option, water in the morning so that the leaves have time to dry out completely before evening.

COMPANION PLANTING / ROTATION

Onions planted among carrots have been observed to repel carrot flies.

Some gardeners have reported an enhanced taste in onions when planted with summer savory and chamomile.

Most issues with growing onions can be minimized (both pests and diseases) by 1) regularly rotating your crop ( not planting in the same location as the previous year), 2) applying row covers immediately after planting to keep onion maggots from accessing plants, and 3) by controlling the weeds, which also reduces the breeding ground for pests.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Onions can be harvested early for green onions.

Harvesting mature onions: Once the tops of most of your onions begin to fall over, mark the day on your calendar and stop all watering; after two weeks, harvest your onions.

Be very careful not to bruise or damage bulbs with your shovel. It shortens the shelf-life of onions, causing them to rot more quickly (like an apple or a peach would).

Spread your onions in rows in the sun, layering them so tops of one row cover the previous row of bulbs, allowing them to dry, but avoiding “sunburn”.

STORAGE

After onions have cured, brush (don’t wash) any excess dirt you can of the onions.

If you braid your onions, do it when the tops are still flexible.

Hang in a warm, dark, ventilated area to allow the onions to fully dry.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Most onion issues can be minimized (both pests and fungi) by regularly rotating your onion crops, providing well drained soil, and not allowing onion leaves to be damp for long periods of time.

The use of row covers right after planting will help to keep onion maggots out.

Keeping the weeds under control will eliminate habitats for pests to hide and breed in.

Corn-gluten meal is a safe, natural by-product of corn processing which will prevent weed seeds from germinating.

Spread meal around well established onion plants then mulch with 2” of “seed free” straw (we like barley straw if it’s available).

Humid conditions are a breeding grounds for fungal diseases, the onion’s biggest enemy.

SAVING SEEDS

How-to-Grow Onion Sets From Seed

Set aside a few square feet of garden bed in early spring.

Scatter about an ounce of seeds in a 4 square foot area.

Don’t thin plants; crowding keeps the bulbs small.

Smaller sets give you larger bulbs and are less likely to bolt to seed the following year.

Pull plants in late July before the bulbs reach a ¾” diameter.

Use larger bulbs for small onions in soups, stews or pickling.

Cure sets in sun until tops thoroughly dry (7-10 days in sunny, dry weather).

Braid (for hanging) or cut off tops and place in a ventilated box or crate (see storage).

Store in a dark, dry, and airy location with a temperature maintaining as close to 50F as possible.

Planting & Growing Organic Garlic

The Two Main Garlic Types

There are two types of garlic; ‘hard neck’ and ‘soft neck.’

The upside to hard neck garlic is that it produces plumper cloves and has a broader variety than soft neck garlic.

The downside is that it is more difficult to keep from sprouting. It does not store as well as soft neck garlic varieties.

Soft neck garlic is an ideal choice for long-term storage. Soft neck varieties are a little easier to grow but have a cluster of tiny cloves in the center that are tedious to work with. We grow both types to get the best of both worlds…flavor and storage quality.

One other important consideration when planting garlic is your climate. Hard neck garlic types root quicker and are therefore better grown in northern climates. Soft neck types do better in areas with mild winters. Yet, with proper care, both types can grow successfully in either climate.

WHEN TO PLANT

Planting garlic in the fall a few weeks before the ground freezes will allow a root system to establish but not provide enough time for the plant to emerge above the surface before winter and become damaged.

For spring planting, sow bulbs when soil temperature reaches 55 F. Garlic planted in the spring will grow OK, but usually at a lesser rate than garlic that is planted in the fall, resulting in smaller bulb development.

WHERE TO PLANT

Garlic will tolerate partial shade but will perform best in full sun

PREPARING THE SOIL

For planting garlic, you want your soil to be in the range of pH 6.0 – 7.0.

Garlic grows well in deep, well-drained soil amended with composted manure and plenty of organic matter mixed in before planting.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

Garlic has an antibiotic and anti-fungal compound called allicin. When an insect bites into the clove the compound is released acting as a natural pesticide.

Planting garlic next to lettuce and cabbage is beneficial, as garlic deters aphids and other common pests.

Bad companions include beans, peas and potatoes as the garlic tends to stunt their growth

Planting garlic after any onion family crop, as they are closely related and prone to the same problems, is not advised.

PLANTING AND GROWING

From your bulbs, select the large outer cloves for planting. Use the smaller cloves for immediate eating.

Separate the cloves from the bulb (this is called ‘cracking’) as close to planting time as possible; you don’t want the root nodules to dry out.

With the root end facing down and points (or tops) up, plant to the depth of 1 to 2” below the surface for soft neck garlic and a minimum of 2” for hard neck garlic.

Space individual cloves in rows 4- 6”apart with 1’ between rows. Cover loosely with the recommended soil level.

Garlic does not like competition with other plants so weeding is imperative for proper bulb development. When flower buds appear, snip them off with scissors; the plant will put more energy into bulb growth.

Garlic does not perform well with repeated freezing and thawing, nor does it like extreme temperatures. In colder regions, apply a thick layer of mulch during the winter and reduce the amount in the spring and summer. Mulch will protect the bulbs, prevent severe fluctuations in temperature, and help keep moisture levels even in the soil.

Chopped leaves or alfalfa hay are an excellent mulch for garlic.

Using straw is not recommended; it is a host to the wheat curl mite which invades garlic. In wet climates, using any form of mulch is not advised; it may cause the ground to hold excess water.

WATERING

Garlic prefers moist, even, well drained soil throughout the growing season with no additional watering the last few weeks before harvesting.

Over-watered garlic is prone to mold and will result in bulbs that have poor keeping quality.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Timing is critical when harvesting garlic.

Watch for when the bottom two or three leaves of hard neck varieties turn brown and when the tops of soft neck varieties fall over naturally; this is a good first indicator that your garlic is ready for harvest.

Before pulling up, check to be sure the bulbs are mature. Carefully brush aside the dirt around the sides of the bulb to feel if the bulbs are large and hard.

Lift bulbs out of the ground before the outer wrappers begin to tear and the skins on the cloves deteriorate. This results in poor storage quality. Harvesting too soon will sacrifice the size of your bulbs.

It is best to use a shovel to loosen the soil around the garlic bulb; a garden fork is more likely to pierce the bulbs. Once the bulb is loosened, lift the plant out by hand. Gently tap off excess dirt.

The garlic bulb can become sunburned and loose flavor if exposed to direct sunlight. It is a good idea to cover your bulbs or place them out of the sunlight while you are harvesting.

COMMON CHALLENGES

Most diseases can generally be prevented when planting garlic by avoiding over-watering and excess standing moisture. Watering the last few weeks before harvesting will shorten the life of your bulbs.

STORAGE

The storing process begins with curing your garlic. If cured and stored properly, a garlic bulb will keep 6-8 months.

Hang your bulbs out of direct light in bunches of 4-6. Be sure to allow air circulation to all sides of the bulbs. If an area with good ventilation is not available, use fans.

Optimum drying time is two weeks at 80 F. You will know your garlic is cured when the skin is dry and the necks are tight.

Before storing, clean garlic by trimming off the leaves (unless braiding) and roots and remove just the outer wrappers that are soiled. The outer wrapper is what protects the garlic and helps to maintain freshness so be careful not to expose the cloves.

Leave 1” of the center stalk on hard neck varieties to make separating the cloves easier. Select only unbruised, cloves and store in a paper or mesh bag. Your garlic will keep in a cool, dark place between 60-65 F for several months.

SAVING BULBS

For your next garlic crop, save only fully matured, larger bulbs with plump cloves. Store your planting bulbs the same way you would your long-term storage garlic. (See Storage)

In warmer regions, hard neck garlic must be put through an artificial ‘cold spell’ by storing in a cool, dry location with good air circulation at 45-50 F for approximately 3 weeks before planting to induce sprouting.

How to Grow Delicious Organic Snap, Snow, and Sugar Peas

WHERE TO PLANT

In the spring plant your peas in full sun protected from strong winds.

Later plantings will benefit from some shade from the afternoon heat. Planting next to taller plants, such as corn, can provide that protection during the hot part of the day.

It is essential to keep your pea roots from over-heating. When weather begins to warm, apply 2" of mulch around the roots. The mulch will keep peas cooler and prolong your season.

Lower growing bush varieties can be grown in containers with attention to the soils moisture levels. Watering will be more frequent.

WHEN TO PLANT

Peas can be planted as soon as the ground is workable and the soil temperature has reached at least 40F.

Pea plants can survive frost and temperatures down to the lower 20’s but are susceptible when emerging from soil and during bloom.

PREPARING THE SOIL

PH level: 6.0-6.7

Cool weather is not a concern for growing peas. Soil condition, however is.

Preparing your garden's soil for growing peas should start in the fall by spading or tilling plenty of leaves and other organic material into the soil.

When the weather gets wet in the fall, these organic materials will decay quickly.

In spring you will be left with rich, loose soil, aiding in root development and providing good drainage.

For early plantings, elevating the rows (raised beds) will retain heat in those cool early spring days and also help drain any excess moisture.

Peas are of the legume family and therefore supply their own nitrogen.

Don't use high nitrogen organic fertilizers such as manure. Too much nitrogen will produce beautiful, dense foliage but very few peas.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Seeds will germinate at soil temperatures as low as 40F in approximately 36 days. With soil temperatures at 60 F, germination will accelerate to 7-10 days.

Pre-soak seeds in water for 24 hours to soften the hard seed coating, drain, and spray with an organic seaweed emulsion before planting.

Seed will remain plantable for up to viability 3 years.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (transplanting)

Not Recommended: Pea roots are very delicate and often do not survive transplanting. Peas are also tough in cool weather, so starting seedlings indoors is not necessary.

SOWING AND GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)

Peas are prone to rot and susceptible to fungus attack. When planting untreated organic seeds (seeds that have not been sprayed with a fungicide) plant a bit heavier to cover for any losses.

If you aren't sure whether your seeds have been treated, it's pretty easy to tell. If they have a pink coating, they have been treated.

Space your untreated seeds 1.5” apart (2” for treated seeds).

Plant early crops 2” deep in light soil, 1” in heavy soil.

Increase seed depth 1-2 inches deeper as the weather warms up. This will keep the seeds cooler and prolong your season.

If planting where legumes have not been planted before, treat pea seeds with an inoculant powder by soaking seeds.

After soaking, drain seeds and sprinkle a light coating of powder on top. Swirl around in bowl to lightly coat seeds. Plant immediately.

This year we applied an outstanding plant extract leaf spray once every two weeks, making vibrant plants that produced a lot of really sweet peas!

WATERING

Peas should never be in waterlogged soil.

Consistent and moderate watering is your best option for growing peas. This is critical when blooms are forming. Too much water will reduce yields and potentially rot the roots.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

To best utilize your garden space, inter-plant peas with spinach, lettuce, or radishes. Bad companions include all members of the onion/garlic family.

Rotation consideration: Follow peas with corn because of the nitrogen-fixing qualities of pea plants when tilled in after the harvest.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Pea pods are usually ready to pick about three weeks after blossoming.

Sugar peas (also known as Snow Peas) are harvested when they are flat and the peas are barely noticeable.

Snap peas are more versatile. They can be harvested when the pod is young and flat or later once the peas are big and plump in the pod.

Cut off pods with scissors rather than pull them. Pulling the pods can uproot the plant or cause shock to the plant which will halt production.

Harvesting on a daily basis will not only allow you to pick the peas when they are prime but it triggers the plants to keep producing.

STORAGE

For storage, freeze your peas within a few hours of harvest to preserve freshness. If you allow peas to keep more than a day in the refrigerator, the sugar quickly turns to starch.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Most problems growing peas can be avoided by correct watering and not allowing the soil to become waterlogged.

Powdery mildew can be an issue when the weather warms. Your plants will appear flocked; this white fungal coat will drain all nutrients out of the leaves.

Apply sulfur dust to the foliage early in the season as a preventative.

Aphids can cause mosaic virus in your peas which causes the plant to yellow and become stunted. Insecticidal soap is effective for this. It will also help with thrips, a tiny dark colored insect found on the underside of a leaf that distorts and eventually kills the leaf.

The Pea Weevil, a tiny brown beetle with white spots will bore an opening in the blossom and lay eggs in the pods. Eventually they will damage the pea. Crop rotation will help discourage this pest, but if the problems get out of control, use Pyrethrins.