Growing Organic Spinach

WHEN TO PLANT

If you're growing organic spinach, it grows best in the cooler weather at the beginning and end of your area's growing season. Spinach seeds can be planted once the ground is workable (which is up to 8 weeks before the last frost date) with consecutive plantings through spring.

Longer days cause the plant to go to seed quicker (bolting), so planting it as early as possible is advisable. Stop planting once the warm weather plants go outside (such as peppers and tomatoes). You can start growing spinach again in late summer for a fall crop.

WHERE TO PLANT

Growing spinach works best in full sun in early spring. As spring progresses, plant consecutive plantings in partial shade to protect from the increasing heat, slowing the bolting process.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Spinach has a deep tap root so till the soil at least 1’ deep and provide generous amounts of organic matter to keep the soil well-aerated. Although spinach will grow in a wide variance of soils, it will perform best in rich, organic matter such as compost or alfalfa meal.

Prepare your planting area in the fall so you can plant your seeds in the spring as soon as the ground thaws.

The optimal pH levels for growing spinach should be between 6.5 and 7.5.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Your seeds should be good for up to 5 years after your purchase date if they're stored in a cool, dry, location.

Once you've planted your spinach, it typically takes about 43 to 50 days until your plants are mature.

For a higher germination rate, place spinach seeds between wet paper towels and place in a Zip-loc bag. Keep bag in refrigerator 5-7 days.

Seeds will germinate best when daytime temperatures are around 60 F and will tolerate nighttime temperatures as low as 40 F. Shade soil until germination.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (transplanting)

Seeds can be started in flats 3-4 weeks before the last frost date in temperatures 70ºF or below. For quicker germination, see the chilling method in the section above titled "Seeds and Germination."

SOWING AND GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)

Rather than planting a large spinach crop in early spring (unless you are planning to freeze a batch for winter usage) we recommend planting smaller batches every week to 10 days. This will provide you maximum availability of fresh spinach.

If a frost is predicted after you have planted, cover with a row cover and welcome the frost! The more often the temperatures drop the sweeter the spinach will be.

In more temperate climates, or with the use of a cold frame, spinach can often be planted year around.

In warmer climates provide spinach plants with some shelter from the sun; plant in the shade of taller crops such as corn or pole beans.

Thin young seedlings to 6” apart once two true leaves have formed. Once plants develop four true leaves you can give them a boost every couple of weeks with a fish emulsion or a leaf spray (see Jenny's Tip just below), promoting new growth and a sweeter leaf.

Jenny's Tip: We discovered a new liquid organic leaf spray fertilizer this year called Organic Garden Miracle™ - this product increases plant sugar production in your plant, naturally. Plant sugar makes a stronger, bigger, better and sweeter plant. You may want to check it out.

Removing large developed leaves will postpone bolting. Also remove any brown leaves; these are not good for eating and will sap the plant of it’s strength.

If leaves become large and few tender leaves are forming, cut the entire plant 1” above soil level; this will encourage the plant to grow another crop of leaves.

Once the plant begins to form a center stalk (bolting), the leaves will become bitter tasting.

When growing spinach in late summer, plant more seeds than you did in the spring; the increased heat causes germination to be more sporadic.

WATERING

Keep moisture levels moist but not soggy. Allowing soil to dry out will encourage plants to bolt.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

Growing spinach in your garden will benefit all succeeding crops planted in the same location. Do not follow spinach with legumes.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Harvesting can begin once the plant has developed at least 6 leaves, usually 6-8 weeks after planting. Pick leaves from the outside of the plant as soon as they are big enough to use (think of baby spinach leaves).

STORAGE

Spinach can be dried in a food dehydrator. Dry unwashed leaves until they break easily; store in a paper bag or other food container, avoiding folds in the leaves.

Spinach can also be frozen. Blanche 1 to 2 minutes and when cool, place in quart-size Zip-loc bags and store in freezer.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Since spinach grows in very cool temperatures, pests are usually not an issue. If any spotted cucumber beetles are present, handpick them off the plant and destroy them.

Avoid over-watering spinach which can lead to mildew.

Growing Organic Peppers

PRE-PURCHASE INFO

If you're growing peppers this year in your garden, it's best to note a couple basic facts. First, whether you're growing sweet peppers (also referred to as bell peppers) or if you're growing hot peppers, the growing instructions are essentially the same for either type of pepper.

Second, if you're growing your peppers from seed, you'll have way more variety choices than if you purchase pepper starts from a garden center.

WHEN AND WHERE TO PLANT

When planting peppers in Northern climates its a very good idea to get an early start, so we typically plant our peppers indoors under grow lights around 2 months before our last frost. This will produce better results due to the longer growing season for your peppers.

It's the best practice to grow your peppers in an area with full sun. Shade or partial shade will hurt your plants' productivity as well as the flavor of your peppers.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Add plenty of compost to your soil. Manure may also be necessary but be careful not to create excessive nitrogen. Peppers are sensitive and the resulting factor will be outstanding foliage with less than normal production in fruit.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Both sweet peppers (often referred to as bell peppers) and hot peppers follow the same rules of care. If you want your seeds to germinate optimally, soil temperatures should be in the 75F-85°F (optimum 85°F). If you've purchased seeds, they'll usually last for up to two years if stored in a cool, dry location.

STARTING PLANTS INDOORS (transplanting)

Soaking your pepper seeds before planting will accelerate germination. Soak seeds in a glass a few hours or until seeds sink to the bottom.

Some gardeners recommend planting your seeds in individual peat pots to avoid disturbing the roots; we prefer planting our peppers in flats as moisture levels are easier to control.

You’ll want to transplant one time only indoors due to the sensitivity of the root system.

Plant three seeds per pot (or cell) and once two true leaves have developed, see which plant is the strongest. Clip the other two at ground level.

During germination, make certain your peppers are in a sunny, warm location. These plants need at least 5 hours of sunlight per day.

Once the third true leaf develops, peppers can handle night temperatures of

55°F. The lower temperature will increase flower and fruit production.

PLANTING & GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)

Pepper plants can be transplanted to the garden when night temperatures dip no lower than 60°F and plants are 4-6” in height (around 2-3 weeks after frost).

In cooler climates, pre-warm soil with a black plastic covering, then mulch to both maintain warmth and moisture.

A two week “hardening off” period (moving your plants outdoors during the daytime) will keep your plants from any climatic shock upon being planted in your garden.

If possible, transplant to your garden on a cloudy day or provide temporary shade to prevent scorching.

Space plants close together, (12" to 15” apart- hot peppers need less space than sweet peppers). Peppers like to “hold hands” with the touching of foliage, this helps support the plants and prevents sun scald.

Pull weeds close to the plant carefully by hand.

Finally, peppers respond well to periodic watering with compost tea and foliar sprays. Jenny's Tip: We were introduced to a liquid organic leaf spray fertilizer called Organic Garden Miracle™ this last year that helped us grow lots of sweet and hot peppers. We think you'd love this product and should check it out...they've got a great warranty!

WATERING

Growing peppers need moist conditions for germination and through the growing season. Your watering should be consistent and even. Allowing the soil to dry out can change the flavor of your peppers.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

Keep peppers away from where tomatoes and eggplant previously grew. These plants are related to the nightshade family and are prone to the same diseases.

WHEN TO HARVEST

As soon as your peppers are ready to use and before they are ripe, pick a few. This will signal the plant to produce more fruit. Pick individual peppers as they ripen through the season.

STORAGE

Here at On the Green Farms, we like to store our peppers by either freezing or drying. To freeze, simply wash the peppers, cut up into desired pieces or slices, removing the inner core and seeds. Place in Zip-loc bags and store in the freezer.

To dry, follow the same instructions for washing and cutting then lay pieces, not touching, on dehydrator drying racks. Be certain the meaty pieces are dry all the way through. Drying usually takes 24 hours.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

To protect growing peppers from cutworms, place a cardboard collar around the base of each stem and push it at least 1” into the ground.

Hand-picking is a good option for pest like the pepper weevil. It feasts on the blossoms causing deformed and discolored fruit and also for adult pepper maggots that feed on the insides of the fruit causing the pepper to rot and drop off. A floating row cover will also minimize insect populations.

Serious infestations call for more drastic measures and can be controlled with Pyrethrins, a natural organic compound derived from the Chrysanthemum that acts as a lethal internal poison to most insects.

Planting your peppers in a different location each planting cycle is your best defense against most pepper diseases.

Growing Organic Kale

WHEN TO PLANT

Plant kale seeds in the early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. Protect germinating kale seeds or young growing kale plants from a heavy frost, less than 25°F, with row covers. Mild frost will not harm the plant; in fact, frost will improve the flavor by making the leaves sweeter.

For a fall/winter crop, broadcast seeds 6-8 weeks before the first expected frost date.

WHERE TO PLANT

Kale thrives in cooler temperatures and does well in partial shade and overcast climates.

We've had success in our hot and dry summer climate by planting in partial shade and keeping moisture levels even. Growing in full sun in hotter climates, though, will make the leaves tough and bitter.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Kale is a rich, mineral-bearing member of the "brassica" family (members include broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and many other vegetables) and does well in generous amounts of compost. Keep your soil's pH level between 6.0-7.0

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Kale seeds will germinate in temperatures as low as 45ºF but germinate the quickest (5-10 days) in 70-75ºF.

Once you've purchased your kale seeds, they should last up to 4 years if stored in a cool, dry location.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (transplanting)

It's unnecessary to plant kale indoors as it thrives in cool weather (one of our kale varieties survived -15 ºF this winter).

SOWING AND GROWING

(Planting seeds directly into the garden)

Although kale will do well in cooler weather, warming your growing area with black plastic will give you a quicker start.

Plant seed ½” deep, spacing plants 6" to 8" apart. After they've grown to about 12" tall, thin the kale plants to about 18" to 24” apart. I plant more than one seed per location. The needed space these plants need leaves a large space in a row if a single seed doesn’t germinate.

Before the heat sets in, apply mulch around plants to cool the roots. This will conserve moisture and prolong your harvest. Kale gets tough and tasteless in hot conditions.

Water every 3-4 weeks with a fish emulsion and/or compost tea.

Jenny's Tip: This past year we discovered a liquid organic fertilizer, a leaf spray called Organic Garden Miracle, that naturally stimulates your garden plants, including kale, to produce more plant sugar. Plant sugar is the basis for the size, health, taste, and nutrition in your plants.

WATERING

Water your growing kale heavily throughout hot part of the growing season; water sparingly in the fall until heavy frost.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

Planting where other brassica family members (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, etc.) have previously been grown should be avoided as it may encourage pest proliferation.

WHEN TO HARVEST

The young, tender foliage of this vitamin and mineral-packed plant can be harvested for salads. As your growing kale plant develops, harvest outside leaves when needed. If the leaf has a thick center stem, remove it.

The best way I have found is to pinch the plant at the base of the leaf and pull the leaf off, stripping it from the stem. This will remove most of the stem. Any stem that is still intact can be cut off.

When the plant has enough foliage to spare, you can pick extra leaves to blanch, chop and freeze for soup in the winter.

STORAGE

Two weeks in the refrigerator is the usual self-life for kale.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

There are a few things you can do to keep your cabbage from being attacked by pests:

1. Overhead watering will help detach insects from the plant

2. Controlling nitrogen levels keep the aphid numbers down; high levels of nitrogen have been shown to increase aphid population

3. Using compost or straw mulches will significantly reduce the amount of fly larvae hatched directly into the soil. It also serves as a habitat for ground and rove beetles, predators of the cabbage maggot

4. Floating row covers used during the critical period after the plant emerges or right after transplanting will prevent larvae hatchings

5.Clubroot (a fungus that attacks the roots) can be controlled by keeping soil pH at 7.2. If pH levels drop below appropriate levels "liming" is recommended (addition of lime to your soil)

Growing Organic Lettuce

WHEN TO PLANT LETTUCE

Lettuce can be planted directly in the ground in early spring when the soil temperature reaches a minimum of 35°F. Although the optimal temperature for germinating the lettuce seed is 75°F (which you can achieve by starting your seeds indoors- see 'Starting Indoors'), the seeds will still germinate in colder temperatures; it will just take a little longer for germination to occur.

Lettuce can tolerate light frost but if a cold frost is predicted, cover plants with a row cover to prevent freezing. When temperatures reach over 80°F the heat will cause the seed to become temporarily dormant and germination will not occur.

To have a steady supply of lettuce available throughout the season, plant seeds every ten days to two weeks. You can continue planting until heavy frosts begin to hit in the fall but if you have a cold frame you could even stretch your lettuce season a little further depending on your climate.

LIGHT AND WATER REQUIREMENTS

Lettuce, in the spring does best in full shade but once the summer heat hits, it will perform better if it is in partial shade. When planting consecutively, begin planting your seeds in partial shade starting late spring. Giving the plant some relief from the hot sun will slow the "bolting" process (when a plant begins to flower and produce seed) which also causes the lettuce leaves to become bitter.

To slow down the bolting process, once it starts go grow upward, break off the top center of the plant before it goes to seed. Lettuce needs a steady supply of water but not a heavy amount. If the soil becomes dry the lettuce will not only stop growing but it will cause the leaves to have a bitter flavor.

PREPARING THE SOIL FOR PLANTING LETTUCE

Lettuce has a short, dense root system. Because the roots don't go down very deep, it is important that you plant it in humus-rich (humus is dark organic matter which may contain compost or aged manure), well-drained soil.

Test the pH level in your soil; lettuce requires a pH between 6.0 - 6.8. Lettuce likes high levels of nitrogen and a steady dose of it so apply a natural quick release form of nitrogen such as blood meal or compost tea and a slower release form such as composted manure or alfalfa meal to keep the nitrogen supply steady throughout the growing season.

STARTING LETTUCE INDOORS

For an even earlier crop, lettuce seeds can be started indoors up to 4-6 weeks before your area's last frost date. With lettuce seeds, light is the most important element for germination so keep trays in a sunlit area or under grow lights.

PLANTING LETTUCE SEEDS DIRECTLY IN SOIL

When planting lettuce seeds, you can either broadcast seed and lightly rake to cover them or plant seeds in rows ¼ inch deep 1" apart. Lettuce seeds are very small and often hard to control the amount when planting. Rolling them between your index finger and thumb gives you a little better control.

Once your lettuce has grown four leaves, thin your plants to remove excess plantings and allow room for growth. Allow 12-14 inches between plants when growing head lettuce (such as Iceberg and summer crisp types), and 4" between plants if you're growing leaf lettuce.

We've found that a simple liquid organic leaf spray called Organic Garden Miracle™ not only speeds up the lettuce harvest (some have said up to 50% but I haven't personally verified this), it improves the sweetness and flavor of your lettuce as well.

COMPANION PLANTING AND ROTATION CONSIDERATIONS

The best companions for growing lettuce are carrots, garlic, onions, and radishes. Lettuce does not seem to have any enemies and can be planted next to any vegetable or flower plant.

Attractive hint: a row of rotating red and green varieties can make an eye-catching and nutritious border in your flower bed or a nice accent in your containers.

When you're growing lettuce, it's best not to plant it where radicchio, artichokes, or endive grew the previous year. To prevent disease issues, plant in a location where lettuce has not been grown in three years.

WHEN TO HARVEST LETTUCE

If you want more crisp lettuce leaves, harvest it in the morning. Lettuce becomes more crisp during the cool hours of the night. You can begin to harvest outer lettuce leaves (except for head lettuces) when they are large enough for a salad - about 6" tall or when the stability of the plant is not weakened by the removal of a few outer leaves. Continue to harvest until a center stock forms.

If harvesting full lettuce heads, cut the head at the base 1 inch above the soil level and a new head will begin to develop. Depending on the growing season, you may be able to get a third harvest. Once a center stock begins to form, the plant is beginning to bolt, and the leaves develop a bitter flavor that are no longer good for eating.

STORING LETTUCE

Eating lettuce fresh from the garden provides the best flavor and quality, but if you keep it in a plastic bag free from moisture, most lettuces will last 1-2 weeks. Lettuce cannot be stored long-term.

SAVING SEEDS

To keep your seeds pure, plant lettuce varieties a minimum of 12 feet apart to prevent cross-pollination. Save seeds from the last plant to bolt since early bolting is a negative trait that will carry through to the seeds.

Lettuce seeds are ready for harvest 12-24 days after flowering. Seeds will not all ripen at once so to get the highest quantity of seeds from your plant, shake the seed heads into a large paper bag once a day during the ripening process and keep the bag stored in a dry location at night.

Growing Organic Cucumbers

WHEN TO PLANT

We recommend planting sprouted seeds outdoors 3-4 weeks after the last frost date or when the soil temperature is a steady 70F or higher during the day. Your plants will perform better than earlier plantings and eventually pass them up in growth.

WHERE TO PLANT

Cucumbers need at least 8 hours of full sun daily.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Cucumbers require a high level of soil nutrients and develop optimally in fertile, clay soil with plenty of humus (dark organic material produced by the decomposition of vegetable or animal matter; also known as compost).

Before planting, apply 1”-2” of rich compost to your planting area and check pH levels to be sure they are between 6.0 and 6.8.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Cucumbers are capable of germinating in soil temperature as low as 60F; anything below that and the seeds are more likely to rot before they sprout. The ideal temperature is 85-95F, which will germinate the seeds in 3 days. Seed should last 5 years from your purchase date if stored in a cool, dry place.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (transplanting)

Cucumber plants don't handle being transplanted well. Disrupting the root system can permanently hinder your plants so growing seedlings indoors is not recommended.

If you have a shorter growing season, you can speed up the process by sprouting your seeds indoors a few days before planting outside.

To do this, place your seeds between a warm, wet paper towel and put it in a Ziploc bag. Place the bag in a warm, lighted location. Once the seeds sprout, plant outside immediately.

SOWING AND GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)

Cucumbers love high humidity and warmth up to 95F.

Both vine and bush varieties produce the best yields when the plants have something to climb. This could be a fence, trellis, vertical pole, or even another plant. Providing support will help to minimize rot, waste, and disease in your crop.

If planting in a row, plant your seeds 18” apart. Mounding the soil to make raised rows will provide extra warmth for your plants, giving your plants excellent growth.

If planting in hills, create hills 3’ in diameter with 4-5’ spacing between the center of each hill. Plant 5-6 seeds per hill. Once the seedlings develop 2-3 true leaves, thin the plants by snipping the weaker seedlings and leaving the three most vigorous plants.

Once the plants are 1’ high, provide something for them (a fence, trellis, etc.) to climb.

Once production begins, harvest your cucumbers regularly (daily) to extend the growing season.

When even one cucumber is allowed to reach full maturity, (shown by yellowing around the ends and a plump fruit), “shutting down” occurs. This will signal the plant that the season has ended and stop producing.

Using a liquid organic leaf spray every couple of weeks has proven to improve production and sweetness/flavor in cucumbers in our garden. It works with your plant to produce more plant sugar, producing stronger plants, more blooms, and sweeter cucumbers.

WATERING

Cucumbers are 95% water, therefore it is very important to maintain moist, well-drained soil throughout the season.

Soak soil deeply during dry spells. Lay down 2” organic mulch such as straw, hay, grass clippings or leaves. Mulch will conserve moisture and suppress weeds and help to keep the fruits clean.

If using overhead watering, do it in the morning so the leaves have time to try out before evening which will minimize disease.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

Good garden companions to cucumbers are corn, sunflowers, and beans as they thrive under the same soil conditions. They also provide an object to climb which helps to stabilize them.

Radishes, nasturtiums, and marigolds are also excellent companions as they are known to repel the cucumber beetle, and dill will help in attracting predatory insects.

Cucumbers DO NOT perform well planted next to potatoes or aromatic herbs. Avoid following cucumbers of any type.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Harvest cucumbers when they are still small and dark green all over. Once they begin to yellow at the blossom end that is an indication the cucumber is overripe.

STORAGE

The cucumber itself is best eaten fresh and will store in the refrigerator for about a week. Cucumbers can be lacto-fermented or pickled and canned to enjoy throughout the year.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Cucumber Beetles (Striped and Spotted) are the greatest threat to your growing cucumbers. Adult beetles are ¼” long with black heads and greenish-yellow wings.

These bugs can decimate your seedlings and chew large jagged holes through the leaves of maturing plants. Examine the foliage and inside of the blooms daily; destroy any beetles you find.

Covering plants (especially seedlings) with netting such as a floating row cover will help minimize cucumber beetles but this will also prevent bees from pollinating if netting is left on once flowering occurs. Either remove netting or hand pollinate blossoms.

Cucumber beetles are attracted to bitter compounds (cucurbitacins) that cause bitterness in the fruit so planting non-bitter varieties will reduce the attraction. Using a liquid organic leaf spray will also help make your cucumbers sweeter.

Other potential pests include cut worms, aphids, and spider mites which can be treated with insecticidal soaps. Be cautious, foliage is easily burned by insecticidal soap and copper sprays so use the greatest dilution offered in the directions.

Spray plants when not in the direct sun and temperatures are below 80 F. Don't spray plants if moisture levels are not adequate or plants are stressed from drought.

Growing Organic Celery

WHEN TO PLANT

Start seeds indoors in February or March 10-12 weeks before the last frost. Sow seeds indoors or directly into the garden in May or June for a fall crop.

In mild winter areas, celery can be sown in mid to late summer and grown as a winter crop.

WHERE TO PLANT

For spring planting, plant celery in full sun. When planting for the fall crop during the summer, protect your young seedlings by providing afternoon shade in hot, humid weather. Planting in the afternoon shadows of a taller crop like corn or pole beans will accomplish this.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Celery is a "heavy feeder" and requires continual attention to nutrient levels. Celery requires well drained soil that is rich with compost and well-rotted manure, and a pH level of 6.0-6.8.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Planting from seed gives you far greater variety than buying starts.

Soak celery seeds over night to encourage germination. Celery seeds are usually good for up to 5 years after you've purchased them initially.

The best soil temperature for germination is around 60F-70F, and it takes about 7 to 12 days to germinate in ideal temperatures; germination in cooler temperatures can take up to three weeks.

Light does not seem to affect germination unless the temperatures at planting are above 70F. When temperatures are higher, the light helps to stimulate germination.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (for transplanting)

Plant seeds in flats 1” apart using a mix of 2/3 part manure and 1/3 part sand. Cover seeds with 1/8” sand then cover top with wet burlap or damp sphagnum moss until the seeds sprout.

Set flats out of direct sunlight in a location with good air circulation. Keep temperatures between 60-70F. Once the seedlings are 4” tall, transplant to peat pots.

PLANTING/GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)

Growing celery is not difficult given the right conditions. Celery is an ancestor to a marsh dwelling plant and requires plenty of water and protection from the hot sun.

Harden off (put plant trays outdoors during the daylight hours) transplants for 10 days when the plants are 6” tall (before the taproot forms) and when it is two weeks past your last frost date. When hardening off, do not expose the transplants to temperatures lower than 50F or the celery may bolt to seed.

Space plants 6-8” apart; space the rows 24" to 30" apart.

Put a handful of compost in the planting hole before setting the plant in. Set the plants in the dirt no deeper than they are in the pots; the soil level should be the same. Feed the plants every couple weeks with a manure tea or fish emulsion. To maximize size and flavor, use a liquid organic leaf spray at the same time (every two weeks).

Apply several inches of mulch to the base of your plants and provide at least 1” of water a week. Weeds will rob celery of nutrients so carefully pull any competing weeds, being careful of celery’s shallow root system.

Apply compost tea and/or fish emulsion once a month though the season, and the liquid organic leaf spray every two weeks.

If night temperatures are consistently below 55F, cover plants with hot caps to prevent plants from developing weak stalks.

WATERING

Celery needs more water than most vegetables in your garden; it requires a steady, generous supply in well-draining soil. Keep soil evenly moist throughout germination.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

Growing celery next to most garden plants is OK, but it is advisable to not plant side-by-side with carrots or lettuce; these plants are susceptible to many of the same diseases.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Harvest celery before temperatures reach 75F. This will prevent bolting and bitterness. Harvest single stalks from the outside of the plants when needed. When harvesting the entire plant, cut at the soil line. Water plants the day before harvest for the best flavor and for longer storage capabilities.

For fall plantings, use row covers to protect from light frost. Harvest plants before a heavy frost hits.

STORAGE

Celery will keep in the refrigerator for a couple weeks. Harvesting the entire celery plant, roots with soil intact, and placing in a bucket with sand, will preserve your plants for several months with occasional watering when kept in a cool space (basement, cellar, or crawl space). Celery can also be dehydrated.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

Boron deficiency: Browning of leaves and splits across stalk.
Magnesium deficiency: yellow leaves
Phosphorus deficiency: rosette will form on celery

Solutions: Prepare your soil as noted in the "Preparing the Soil" section; attend to nutrients in soil through the season. Rotating your celery crop is your best defense against disease.

A disease known as Aster yellows (transmitted from leafhoppers) can cause severe damage to your celery plants. Avoid planting near pastures or river and stream banks where the bacteria can be present in naturally occurring vegetation.

Some symptoms of the disease are yellowing (not due to under-watering), an appearance of curly stalks, distorted leaves (giving them a melted appearance), or tall shoots stemming from just the center of the plant.

Any infected plants should be immediately be removed and disposed of to prevent further spread of the disease.

If leafhoppers are present, remove insects with a stiff stream of water from a spray nozzle, being careful not to damage the plants.

Leafhoppers can usually be controlled with insecticidal soaps. If this is ineffective, use organics neem or pyrethrin spray as a last resort.

Growing Organic Cabbage

WHEN TO PLANT

Start cabbage seeds indoors 4 weeks before last frost.

For a continual harvest, plant outdoors every two weeks after the last frost date, planting the last crop in July for storage in the fall.

Due to the cold Pacific Coast moderating the warmer temperatures, California is able to grow cabbages year around.

WHERE TO PLANT

Full sun and very fertile, well drained soil.

PREPARING THE SOIL

All members of the brassica family (such as cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, collards, kale, and Brussels sprouts to name a few) are are big consumers of soil nutrients.

Add plenty of well rotted manure and compost to the soil before planting.

Cabbage plants prefer a liberal, balanced amount of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus.

Many problems with cabbage are avoided when the pH level is right around 7.2. If your soil pH is low, adding lime will bring it up.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Cabbage seeds germinate in soil temperatures as low as 50 F but will take 2 weeks or more before germinating.

The most ideal temperature for germination is 80-85 F, taking only 3-4 days to sprout.

Seed viability: 5 years

GETTING STARTED INDOORS (transplanting)

Cabbage is very susceptible to transplant shock but with care, cabbage seeds can be started indoors for faster germination.

Start cabbage seeds indoors in flats ¼ “ deep and 2” apart.

Set in a sunny location or under grow lights with a temperature of 65-75 F (some varieties can germinate in lower temperatures).

Once the seedlings have emerged, keep the air temperature between 60-65 F.

Seedlings can begin the transplanting process once the outside temperatures reach a steady 50 F and the seedlings have developed three true leaves.

Harden off seedlings (set out during the day and bring in at night) for a minimum of one week before planting outside. Plants should be well watered before transplanting.

When transplanting, be careful not to disturb the root ball. Plant a little deeper; bringing soil level slightly above the previous soil line.

Choose a day to transplant that is cool and overcast. This will help prevent transplant shock which can be caused by a changes in temperature and light, disrupting the root system, or not enough water.

PLANTING/GROWING (Planting seeds directly into the garden)

SPACING:
Space cabbages 12-18” apart with 2-3’ between rows to allow for spreading roots.

Wider spacing provides space for larger heads to develop but young, smaller headed cabbages are more tender and flavorful.

To get the best of both worlds, space cabbages 12” apart and harvest every other one when about the size of a softball for fresh eating, leaving the rest to fully mature for storage.

WEEDING:
Young plants do not fair well if they are competing for space with weeds; it will slow their growth.

Weeding is critical for plant development but be extremely cautious of the cabbage’s shallow, dense root system which can be easily damaged by using garden tools.

If a weed is growing too close to the root system, clip it at ground level; this will avoid damaging the cabbage plant’s root system.

Once the heads begin to form, hand weeding is recommended. Applying a layer of mulch will help keep the weeds under control and help maintain even moisture levels.

SPLITTING:
Cabbage heads are prone to splitting. There are various reasons for this but the underlying reason is stress.

The most common causes of splitting are fluctuation in soil moisture and overgrown heads.

To prevent splitting, keep soil moisture levels even and harvest earlier.

Once a head is formed, plunging the blade of a spade or shovel into the soil on one side of the plant will cut some of the roots, slowing the bolting process.

WATERING

Keep moisture levels even and soil well drained throughout the growing season. Waterlogged soil will decrease the quality of cabbage.

Sufficient amounts of organic matter is necessary due to its ability to both hold, or drain excess moisture.

COMPANION PLANTING & ROTATION

Cabbage grows well with most aromatic herbs, especially chamomile.

Clover planted in the spaces between the cabbages has been effective as a living mulch, preventing pests from accessing bare ground on which to hatch their eggs.

Celery as been observed to strengthen and promote the growth of cabbage.

For varied reasons, bad companions include tomatoes, dill, pole beans, and strawberries.

When growing cabbage, avoid following other cabbage family plants.

WHEN TO HARVEST

Cabbage heads can be harvested when the head becomes firm.

For the most tender, flavorful heads, harvest when the size of a softball; what they are lacking in size these small heads will make up in flavor. When harvested at this size, the plant will often produce a second head.

Allow growing cabbage heads to mature for the highest yields. (See ‘Spacing’ for harvesting tips)

Be sure to keep an eye on the weather forecast. Rain may cause fully-ripened cabbage heads to split. If this happens, you have a short time in which to harvest your cabbage or they'll begin to rot.

At the harvest, cut as close to the head as possible and this will allow for more small heads to grow. These can grow 2 or more inches and are quite tasty.

COMMON PESTS AND PROBLEMS

There are a few things you can do to keep growing cabbage from being attacked by pests:

1.Overhead watering will help detach insects from the plant.

2. Controlling nitrogen levels will keep the aphid numbers down; high levels of nitrogen have been shown to increase aphid population.

3. Using compost or straw mulches will significantly reduce the amount of fly larvae hatched directly into the soil. It also serves as a habitat for ground and rove beetles, predators of the cabbage maggot.

4. Floating row covers used during the critical period after the plant emerges or right after transplanting will prevent larvae hatchings.

Clubroot (a fungus that attacks the roots) that can be controlled by keeping soil pH at 7.2. If pH levels drop below that, liming is recommended.

STORAGE

Bruised heads shorten storage life. Red cabbage stores better than green. Early varieties do not store well.

For late varieties: pull whole plant, roots intact rather than cutting. Remove outer and damaged leaves. Place on shelves or in a cellar wrapped in newspaper.